Valve Clearance and Noise

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7hillswarrior

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So i started up the quad two weeks ago after a top end job. The top end job was all parts pretty much from alba w/ the cam & spring kit. Its a .450 cam shaft to the build. I put new valve springs/ retainers and new valves. Me being stupid, i adjusted the valves to the OEM cam shaft and not for the new one. I tried adjusting the valves tonight after about 2-3 hrs on the new top end. I have a paper saying that the clearance is 0.006" for both intake and exhaust. Is this true. I adjusted for this and started up the quad and it was very noisy! you can hear it straight by the head. I assuming that the rocker arms and valves have too much clearance now.

Does anyone know what my valve clearance should be? Is the 0.006" correct or should it be lower? when i had it at stock adjustment. I didn't have nearly as much valve chatter.

here is a video of the noise. I tried adjusting again last night for .004" intake and .005" exhaust. Still doesn't sound right. Any suggestions on what would be wrong?




edit: if this doesn't work i can email the file to you.
 
where the valves tight when you adjusted them the second time around? You may have adjusted them on the wrong stroke?
 
jasonp said:
where the valves tight when you adjusted them the second time around? You may have adjusted them on the wrong stroke?

i set the crank to TDC. I thought i read that i should modify the valve cover for clearance but it doesn't seem to be making contact with the valve because of no damage to the cover. I will try again on the valve adjustment. Its got to be something with it. I ran it for a while on the oem valve lash and it really wasn't making a sound at all. I will also check my cam gear to make sure i degreed the cam correct when i am at TDC.
 
7hillswarrior said:
jasonp said:
where the valves tight when you adjusted them the second time around? You may have adjusted them on the wrong stroke?

i set the crank to TDC. I thought i read that i should modify the valve cover for clearance but it doesn't seem to be making contact with the valve because of no damage to the cover. I will try again on the valve adjustment. Its got to be something with it. I ran it for a while on the oem valve lash and it really wasn't making a sound at all. I will also check my cam gear to make sure i degreed the cam correct when i am at TDC.

only on the warriors that come with the decompression actuator or factory pull start do you have to grind on the valve cover.
You have tdc compression stroke you can adjust the valves on or tdc overlap when postioning the flywheel at tdc mark. So you have to make sure the cam is on base circle. Just spin the engine around after you get done checking the lash and the next stroke should be exhaust if you are on the correct stroke. If on the wrong stroke then you will see that exhaust lifting up and intake coming down. Other then that a big cam is going to make a lot of noise and you can adjust from factory spec to around .0012" to change how you want the cam to work with the engine.
 
jasonp said:
7hillswarrior said:
i set the crank to TDC. I thought i read that i should modify the valve cover for clearance but it doesn't seem to be making contact with the valve because of no damage to the cover. I will try again on the valve adjustment. Its got to be something with it. I ran it for a while on the oem valve lash and it really wasn't making a sound at all. I will also check my cam gear to make sure i degreed the cam correct when i am at TDC.

only on the warriors that come with the decompression actuator or factory pull start do you have to grind on the valve cover.
You have tdc compression stroke you can adjust the valves on or tdc overlap when postioning the flywheel at tdc mark. So you have to make sure the cam is on base circle. Just spin the engine around after you get done checking the lash and the next stroke should be exhaust if you are on the correct stroke. If on the wrong stroke then you will see that exhaust lifting up and intake coming down. Other then that a big cam is going to make a lot of noise and you can adjust from factory spec to around .0012" to change how you want the cam to work with the engine.

That has always confused me, how do you know when it's on the compression stroke? I think I might have screwed up with adjusting because I get a good deal of valve noise now.
 
It doesnt matter what stroke its on, just make sure the cam-lobe is opposite that valve (i.e. 180* from open) when you set the clearance.
 
Mad Cow said:
jasonp said:
only on the warriors that come with the decompression actuator or factory pull start do you have to grind on the valve cover.
You have tdc compression stroke you can adjust the valves on or tdc overlap when postioning the flywheel at tdc mark. So you have to make sure the cam is on base circle. Just spin the engine around after you get done checking the lash and the next stroke should be exhaust if you are on the correct stroke. If on the wrong stroke then you will see that exhaust lifting up and intake coming down. Other then that a big cam is going to make a lot of noise and you can adjust from factory spec to around .0012" to change how you want the cam to work with the engine.

That has always confused me, how do you know when it's on the compression stroke? I think I might have screwed up with adjusting because I get a good deal of valve noise now.

You know the next stroke after compression is exhaust. So if you are turning the flywheel in the right direction then you can see the exhaust valve start to push down as you rotate past true TDC compression. If you see that then you where on the right stroke. The valves should be tight on the next time around when the T mark on the flywheel is viewed through the hole as that is overlap on the cam, that would be the engine coming off exhaust and into intake. Wrong stroke to adjust on.
Basically you can adjust the valves like griff said when exhaust is open adjust the intake and intake is open adjust the exhaust which can work but if also seem some rather large cams that are not quite on base circle to set the valve correctly.
 
jasonp said:
Basically you can adjust the valves like griff said when exhaust is open adjust the intake and intake is open adjust the exhaust which can work but if also seem some rather large cams that are not quite on base circle to set the valve correctly.

Just to be clear, make sure that valves cam lobe is fully closed, i.e. opposite the valve then adjust that valve.

When you do the other valve, you will need to rotate the cam to make sure that lobe is exactly opposite that valve.

Dont try to adjust both at the same time. Then you dont have to worry about the timing, or what the other valve is doing at the moment.

Hope that makes sense.

Wish I had a cross-section pic of the Warrior engine valve to post, it would be easier to explain.
 
That makes sense, but how am I supposed to see the cam lobe? Don't you have to take off the cam gear for that?
 
Mad Cow said:
That makes sense, but how am I supposed to see the cam lobe? Don't you have to take off the cam gear for that?

If you have both valve covers off the engine you can watch both exhaust and intake valve rockers in what they are doing in relationship to your marks on the flywheel as you are turning it. That is how you see what is going on. There is a one way sealed ball bearing behind the cam gear so it will obstruct your view of seeing the rest of the camshaft. Hope this helps.
 
It is also easy to take off the top cam gear cover for verification. The little O should be lined up at the top when the T is lined up as well. If you adjust on the wrong stroke it will be really sloppy.
 
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