Warrior Won't start

[elwood]

yes I ficken hate the location of the air/fuel screw. I had to buy a shorter flathead just fot it

 

[duneracerweston]

If y'all think the warrior isbad try messing with a rancher 350 it even takes a special tool not a flat head to evenn turn it!!!

 

[dirtrider73068]

A stubby screwdriver your lucky, I have use a flat head screwdriver bit and turn it with my fingers try doing that with it running and hot!!, I agree that mixture screw needs to be on the side, or a better spot. Bad enough just trying to get the carb off the thing.

 

[Neverdone]

Well now I am really drawing a blank. Everyone at work is telling me that there is an air leak somewhere, normally I would agree with how it is acting. So now that it runs and will stay running, I decided to go old school on chasing the air leak. Got out the can of ether and with it running proceeded to spray it everywhere, slowly around the gaskets, and the whole side of the jug. Usually if there is an air leak it should rev up really fast. Well no such luck. sprayed around the carb, and all of the jug..... nothing.

So now my question is could it be ignition related? Could it be the CDI or the pick up or something. In my experience though if one of those goes, they are done. They do nothing.

I guess right now she is a dead stick until the new jets show up. I have no other idea of what it could possibly be. Any thoughts?

 

[dirtrider73068]

I have been having issues with mine as well, carb wise. I got to get some bigger jets, but the way I found out was when it was running(this was tricky) I turn the mixture out till I could get mine to pin the WOT at this point my mixture screw was almost out so that tells me I need eithe ra bigger main or bigger pilot. Unlike your mine will run with choke off, won't rev, cover intake to almost closed revs up. So you might be in same boat need bigger jets.

 

[Neverdone]

I hope I am getting closer. Getting kind of tired of fooling with it, want to go play.

 

[Neverdone]

I did find out something interesting tonight.

I had an idea and scratched the crank nut and the case at TDC. Hooked up a timing light and started the quad. At idle it sparks just fine, as soon as you rev it, the spark starts dropping out. Just like a rev limiter...... When it goes back to idle the spark goes back to normal.

So does anyone know anything about something like that? Wondering if the CDI is shot, loose ground/connector some where. Will start checking into that stuff tomorrow......

 

[Neverdone]

Got it running yesterday. The issue with it not reving was with the CDI. Not sure where exactly the problem was, but I unhooked all of the electrical connections, cleaned them all with electronics spray, and greased them with contact grease and then reseated them. Now she runs like a champ.

Still need to tune the carb, put in the new jets when they show up, and set the floats. The jets are due in tomorrow, so when they arrive I will take care of that.

It is still smoking a bit, but I am going to put in fresh oil and filter and see if that cuts it down some. If it does then cool, if not I already bought a top end gasket kit, will tare it down and rering it, and put in all new top end gaskets.

 

[duneracerweston]

Hey check the wire loom were is leaves the cdi it will rub on the frame and short orut thhe wire that goes to the coil that's exactly what happened to a buddy of mine and all it was was a short

 

[Neverdone]

I had it out running around yesterday and it was running like a champ again, but I do thing I am going to pull the wiring harness out, open it up and clean it out (remove any mud or small children that may be in there). Then go through it, check for bare spots and repair where needed. I am thinking of tearing it all down and painting all of it, make it look good again. So if I do, I will do it then.

 

[DeadLastRacing]

when you take it down to paint, re-tape the whole harness. it will give yah a piece of mind. CDI issues are hard to diagnose, you can't test a CDI like you can the other electrical stuff.

far as your smoking goes, could be valve seals or ring wear. Both fairly easy fixes and good things to take care of f you plan to do any engine upgrades anyways.

 

[Neverdone]

You must be a little braver than I am. I won't even paint with the harness on there. My rule is if I don't want it painted, I am not going to leave it in the line of fire. Plus if it is off I can give it a really good inspection......

Am also going to do the oil cooler mod on this and since I have to pull the clutch cover, and I didn't really like how the clutch felt on it, I think I am going to replace that as well. Has anyone ever used this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300399132275&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Or is there a favorite clutch for the forum?

 

[1998yamahawarrior]

Thats what deadlast was saying, while you had it off inspect it and put a fresh layer on tape to help protect the harness.

As for that clutch I cant say, never used it. But alot of guys run EBC, stock, or some of the more expensive.

 

[Neverdone]

gotcha must have miss read it. planned on doing that anyway. like he said for the piece of mind, plus the factory tape never seems to hold up as well as the good old 3M stuff, and if I am going to spend the time to clean the rest of it up, who wants to put a cruddy looking harness back on? Might as well go the extra mile and do it all. But thanks for the advice. Will look into some more clutches and see what I like. That and a few other guys on another forum say to just add one more steel plate to the mix and it will be better than new. Any thoughts on that?

 

[elwood]

that was me, if it's not slipping at all that is what I would do, oem clutch is great, read this on the extra plate http://www.yfm350.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15097 and this one on the raptor350 clutch mod http://www.yfm350.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20450





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[DeadLastRacing]

I've heard of driveline but dunno about their clutches. If you do buy, make sure to give us a review!

yeah, I was saying when you pull the harness off the frame, tape it then. Only tards paint the frame and the harness together.

 

[Neverdone]

Well in that case, does anyone have/know where I can get another clutch plate without buying a whole clutch kit? I am just one of those people that can't ever seem to take something apart and put it back together the same way. Just never satisfied.

Plus I am planning on taking this on a big wheeling trip the weekend after the fourth to the Badlands in Attica, IN and want to make it as bullet proof as I can. So basically any good durability mod I can do, I want to do. I am on the prowl for a new back shock, curious on what is a good shock mod for the front? I am having the swing arm extended 2" for hill climb ability. Getting the stuff for the oil cooler tonight, if I can find the fittings. It already has skids on the frame and on the bottom of the swing arm. Did the clicker spring in the carb. When I take it apart for paint I am going to get out the heat gun and fix up the plastics, maybe have a few things powder coated, and I was thinking, not sure what the thoughts are on this but, thought about cutting some thin sheet metal (like 20gauge) making and welding skids on the lower A-arms. Any thoughts?

Once all that is done the only stuff I might do would be cosmetic.

Here is a neat idea I have. I saw the mod you guys posted for the brake light mod...... So why is it no one has ever done one for a back up light? Would be just as easy, and if you do a lot of night riding like I do, it could come in handy. Only other thing you might need to do is toss in a relay so your not overloading that circuit.... Might try and see how it works.

 

[dirtrider73068]

I have thought about doing something with a back up light, like useing a small light that they use to light up your tag plate, but have it wired up to when you put it in reverse the light comes on. Dunno know you would go about that, might be able to wire off the red reverse light up front or might have to have a micro switch to activate it.