Wiring Issues

[Ant366]

Hi everyone! My name is Anthony and I just bought my first Warrior 350 it's a 2001. Only mod is a HFM slip on, carb has not been rejetted for exhaust. When I bought it, it was not running. The motor would crank over but no spark. After replacing the stator and ignition coil, she fired right up. At this point I knew the motor was good and it was time to dump $$ to fix her up. The wiring on this thing is sketchy as hell and I have gone though 90% of it and fixed it. I am having trouble figuring out a few things and I'm hoping the folks here can help.

• With the kill switch in the off position the motor cranks over but no spark. How do I fix it so the motor doesn't turn over in the off position. (I borrowed a good working switch from a buddy and the same thing happened.) Since it doesn't start in the off position, should I even worry?
• There is no netural relay on the back of the quad. They jumped the plug(stuck speaker connecters into the plug that goes into the relay):loco: - I bought a new netural relay plugged it in and now the motor won't turn over. I put it back to the way it was and the motor started right up. I started going through the wiring that goes to the relay and noticed 3 orange wires were cut and spliced together. They look like they go to each relay in the back but I can't figure out where the 3rd wire goes.
• When the quad is idling it sounds like it's going to suck the carb through the motor (Bogs down). The quad stays idling and never dies and when I'm riding it I can go through all gears and the motor never bogs. I went through the carb and cleaned it out but I still have the same issue. It's hard to explain what it's doing, I'll see if I can post a video later when I get home.
  Any help would be really appreciated!

 

[Ant366]

Sorry that it took me a few days to get a video up work has been crazy! Here is the link to the video. When I put the choke on it sounds like it got better. Does this mean I'm not getting enough fuel? I still can't figure out the wiring on this thing. I ordered the repair manual so hopefully that'll help me out.

 

[Ant366]

Mid day bump.... any help out there?

 

[YAMAHAULER]

pull the spark plug and see what color it is kinda sounds like it's running lean and maybe check the intake boot between the carb and head it may be cracked

 

[Ant366]

I have checked the boot by visual inspection when I took the carb off to clean it. I want to try and spray the boot with starting fluid to see if the quad revs any higher. I've replaced the plug and it looks good a little on the grey side. This is after letting the quad warm up for 5 minutes and taking it up and down the driveway a few times.

 

[YAMAHAULER]

grey means it's running lean
white to greyish color is too lean
tan to medium brown is in the perfect range and
black is too rich

 

[Ant366]

Thanks for the info yamahauler. I did some research and read that the HFM pipe comes with a jet kit and that most were using a 148/150 main jet. I just ordered a 147.5, 150 main jet, and a 45 pilot jet. I'm hoping that after I up the main and the pilot that it fixes the rev issue I'm having.

Any ideas on the neutral relay issue I'm having? I'm still waiting for my repair manual to get here.

 

[geeessfore]

Depending on where your located 45 may be too fat. Id just run main first before messing with pilot

 

[Ant366]

I'm located in MA and I do ride year around. I'll take your advice on running just the main first and see how that does. I was messing around with the quad last night and I thought I was getting too much fuel because the motor will back fire if I rev it high or in between shifts. Per yamahauler my plug indicates that I may be running lean, and I know that a lean will also cause a back fire. I figured my issue may be with the pilot jet since I only bog while idling and if I remember correctly doesn't the pilot jet affect fuel delivery from idle to 1/4 throttle, and that by upping my main jet it would fix my back fire/lean issue.

 

[YAMAHAULER]

pilot is idle-1/4 throttle
main jet is wot
and the needle controls in between the 2

 

[Ant366]

My jets came in today! Hopefully, I can work on it tomorrow after work. I'm still waiting for the repair manual to come in. The wiring issue is driving me nuts! I think they bypassed the neutral switch at the relay plug instead of at the clutch. There is a baby blue wire that goes to the end of the neutral switch. I can unplug the wire, pull the clutch in and it starts up. Does that sound right? I think I found where the 3rd orange wire comes from; the CDI or rectifier. I'm not sure if the 3 orange wires are suppose to connect to each other. I'm trying to find a wiring diagram but I can't make any sense of the ones I've found.

 

[YAMAHAULER]

the orange wire comes from the cdi splits off and goes to the coil pack and not sure where else
the blue wire going to the neutral switch by shifter when it's plugged in is the neutral light on or off if it starts with it unplugged then maybe the neutral switch is fried

 

[YAMAHAULER]

 

[YAMAHAULER]

nope orange wire just goes straight to the coil pack

 

[Ant366]

You sir are a savior! Thanks for coming through with the wiring diagram. Good news, I replaced my main jet and adjusted my fuel/air screw 2 1/4 turns. The quad is purring like a kitten now. It's still back firing on high revs so I still have a little tuning to do. I can't thank you guys enough for the info posted. I'll be tearing into the wiring tomorrow.

 

[Ant366]

I haven't had a chance to take a look at the wiring until today; finally getting over a cold. I have a question, I think the green plug on the wiring harness goes to the neutral relay. So that would mean that the other plug that is by-passed with speaker wire is the start circuit cut-off relay? Can someone verify that for me? I'm still waiting for my repair manual to come in; stupid ebay! I'm trying to figure out what broke for them to do this to the wiring, instead of dumping money into parts that aren't needed.

What I thought were 3 orange wires that were looped to each other; are actually brown.
Here's a picture of the green plug. The wiring diagram shows 4 wires, someone decided to stick 6 in there instead. I didn't take a pic of the other plug yet since it's tucked behind the battery box all taped up.

 

[Ant366]

the orange wire comes from the cdi splits off and goes to the coil pack and not sure where else
the blue wire going to the neutral switch by shifter when it's plugged in is the neutral light on or off if it starts with it unplugged then maybe the neutral switch is fried

The neutral light never comes on either with the wire plugged in or not. I think the switch is fried and the previous owner by-passed it, and the parking brake. For some reason the kill switch has the black w/ white stripe connected to the sold black wire.

I finally received my repair manual but it's garbage. Did that wiring diagram come from a Clymer repair manual? I am thinking of ordering one of those instead of the pdf version I bought on ebay.

 

[YAMAHAULER]

yes the wiring diagram pic I posted came from the yamaha warrior 87-04 Clymer service manual

 

[Ant366]

Well I picked up a Clymer service manual for the machine, but before I had a chance to get into the wiring the starter clutch went bad. My buddy was parting out his 01 warrior after his chain came off and cracked his motor. I took his main wire harness and neutral switch and wire for it since mine was rigged on. I replaced the starter clutch with a brand new one, neutral switch off my buddy's rig with the old wiring to make sure it would still fire up and run before changing out the harness. Well, I changed the wiring harness and now when I press the start button the motor doesn't turn over. I put my old hacked up harness on and the quad started up no problems at all. The wire harness I pulled from my buddy quad is uncut and worked fine on his machine. I'm able to get the motor to turn over by jumping the starter solenoid with a screw driver but it won't start I'm guessing it's not getting spark. It's time to bust out the multimeter.... I'm almost ready to give up on this thing.

*edit* I traced the new wiring and everything is looking good with the multimeter but no connection on the clutch and parking break switch so I by passed them. I'm also not getting any juice out of the starter solenoid. I had a new spare one and tossed it on but same problem. My relays start clicking when I put a test light to the reverse switch and the light is very dim. I'm so lost!!! Any ideas out there?!?!?!

I decided to tear apart the old wiring hoping to figure out what's bypassed and this harness is a mess. Below are the wires that are spliced together. There are a couple that I'm not sure where they go since I'm not in front of the quad and brought the wiring harness inside the house{raining out).

The following are spliced together:
2 brown wires from start circuit cut off relay
1 brown wire from neutral switch relay
1 brown wire from CDI
Each brown wire from neutral/reverse light bulb
brown wire on main switch
brown wire on dimmer switch

The following are spliced together:
1 black wire to tail light
1 black wire to rectifier
1 black wire to CDI
All these are connected to :
black wire to batter ground
both black wires to head lights
black wire to parking switch
black wire to ignition coil
black wire to kill switch
black wire to main switch
black wire under handle bars(not sure what this one is for)

The following are spliced together :
black w/ white stripe to kill switch
black w/ white stripe to cdi
black w/ white stripe -unknown (goes to something under the handle bars)

red wire spliced into red wire w/ white stripe on rectifier

 

[Ant366]

I had a buddy stop by and help me out doing some more testing. We determined the reverse switch is bad per the test in the book; no continuity with the lever pushed forward and the lead to the switch. Would this cause the motor to not turn over? I don't see how if the green wire runs to the light bulb from the switch. I'm going to try and find a reverse switch tomorrow. He thinks I might have a bad CDI.