I really don't feel like the CDI is a likely cause for it, typically either they work right or they don't, when they go out they completely fry from my experience. I still think the problem is coming from the stator, ignition coil, or plug wire/cap. I don't remember anymore, but wasn't the primary coil testing way out of spec?
'90 Warrior - need help testing electronics
- Thread starter boston350
- Start date
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Checked the battery, feel a little silly, it was at 45% according to the charger. charged that up, hit the starter and it turned over fine with the plug in, no funny noises.
So back to a weak spark, and not starting.
just to confirm, since there were no fuel lines when I got it - big line goes to the petcock, two other hoses are the overflow that routes down, and the top one goes up into the air box?
since my neutral light isn't coming on currently, would that prevent it from starting? I had the clutch in when hitting the start button.
I will troubleshoot the light today to see if it is the bulb or something else.
thanks!
So back to a weak spark, and not starting.
just to confirm, since there were no fuel lines when I got it - big line goes to the petcock, two other hoses are the overflow that routes down, and the top one goes up into the air box?
since my neutral light isn't coming on currently, would that prevent it from starting? I had the clutch in when hitting the start button.
I will troubleshoot the light today to see if it is the bulb or something else.
thanks!
Just saw your other post. OK, didn't know if the CDI was an all or nothing kinda thing - the manual seemed to put it at the end of the troubleshooting line for a weak spark. It has a new ignition coil on it now, but the guy didn't have the plug boot on hand, so i just have the wire wrapped around the end of the plug. that has gotten me a better spark, but still not big and blue.
hoping tomorrow he will have that in so I can test it correctly.
the stator was replaced as well.
hoping tomorrow he will have that in so I can test it correctly.
the stator was replaced as well.
It shouldn't affect anything, but I would still try to figure out why your neutral light isn't coming on. The neutral sensor is on the left side of the engine under the sprocket, should have a single wire connected on the end of it, see if that got knocked loose.
swung by the shop today and described the spark I was getting. He thought it sounded good and let me borrow their spark tester. tossed that on quick and it passed at the low setting and was still jumping almost 2 marks up - so looks like we are good on the spark.
so now back to the basics. tested the compression, looked like about 119, so in the correct range per the book.
so fuel is next guess - if I should start a new thread let me know.
the guy I bought it from said he had just rebuilt the carb.
got all new fuel line, since none was on it. it's black though, so can't see if anything is flowing, but I can run from the petcock into a jar no trouble.
so the main, large fuel line goes from the petcock, the lower(overflow) is running down, and the other small hose is running up into the airbox currently, is that correct?
so now back to the basics. tested the compression, looked like about 119, so in the correct range per the book.
so fuel is next guess - if I should start a new thread let me know.
the guy I bought it from said he had just rebuilt the carb.
got all new fuel line, since none was on it. it's black though, so can't see if anything is flowing, but I can run from the petcock into a jar no trouble.
so the main, large fuel line goes from the petcock, the lower(overflow) is running down, and the other small hose is running up into the airbox currently, is that correct?
Sounds to me like you have the carb lines right, the top line doesn't need to go into the airbox though, stock they just have a 6" line that hides underneath the fuel tank. Shouldn't make a difference either way.
Let's check and see if you're getting any fuel into the float bowl. If you look at the float bowl near where the overflow line comes out you should see a philips head screw, that's the drain valve. Open that up a couple turns and you should get a steady flow of fuel out the line if you're getting fuel into the carb.
Another question, with all the time you've spent messing with this thing, did you even try shooting some starting fluid into the engine and see if it fires? If spray some down the throat of the carb into the engine and hit the starter it should start or at least kick a few times if it's you carb that's giving you problems.
Let's check and see if you're getting any fuel into the float bowl. If you look at the float bowl near where the overflow line comes out you should see a philips head screw, that's the drain valve. Open that up a couple turns and you should get a steady flow of fuel out the line if you're getting fuel into the carb.
Another question, with all the time you've spent messing with this thing, did you even try shooting some starting fluid into the engine and see if it fires? If spray some down the throat of the carb into the engine and hit the starter it should start or at least kick a few times if it's you carb that's giving you problems.
I was thinking about hitting it with some starting fluid this afternoon but only had Wd40 laying around and didn't know how these would respond to that. I'll pick some up tomorrow to help with the troubleshooting when I test the float. homework for tonight is reading up on the carb.
It doesn't sound like it's getting any fuel, no coughing or stuttering, just spins away on the starter.
Thanks!
It doesn't sound like it's getting any fuel, no coughing or stuttering, just spins away on the starter.
Thanks!
OK. double score!! but no hat-trick
fuel does come out the overflow when I opened the screw. I backed it out 3 turns and the fuel would run out, not quiet as fast as if it was coming straight out of the tank, but appeared to be pretty good.
charged up the battery again, and sprayed a few shots of the starting fluid in the carb, let it sit a second and hit the button, spun for a second, coughed and then started up and ran for maybe 5 seconds. hit the starter again, caught right away and ran another few seconds.
turned it off and noticed more fuel coming out of the overflow. I did not have the throttle open while starting it.
float sticking, other issue?
Thanks!
fuel does come out the overflow when I opened the screw. I backed it out 3 turns and the fuel would run out, not quiet as fast as if it was coming straight out of the tank, but appeared to be pretty good.
charged up the battery again, and sprayed a few shots of the starting fluid in the carb, let it sit a second and hit the button, spun for a second, coughed and then started up and ran for maybe 5 seconds. hit the starter again, caught right away and ran another few seconds.
turned it off and noticed more fuel coming out of the overflow. I did not have the throttle open while starting it.
float sticking, other issue?
Thanks!
DeadLastRacing
Well-Known Member
What did it sound like when it was running? Could you rev it when it was running?
being the first time I'd heard the thing light up I was more in shock than anything else - plus it had no pipe so it was pretty loud in the garage. It sounded smooth, until it died, didn't get a chance to rev it. I assume it just burned off the starting fluid and never got a chance at the fuel since it wouldn't start back up again after that.
1998yamahawarrior
Well-Known Member
well then i would pull the carb off check to make sure the jets and passages are clean also the accelerator pump and check to make sure the float is properly adjusted. thats the usual things to check when you arnt getting fuel into the cylinder.
yeah, swung by the shop and they thought the same thing, so I'll pull it off.
started it again on the juice and this time revved it out, sounded fine.
my battery seems to drain after a 5 cranks or a few hours of sitting - probably has something to do with leaving it keyed on all night.
but the neutral light is working again now, so that's another plus.
started it again on the juice and this time revved it out, sounded fine.
my battery seems to drain after a 5 cranks or a few hours of sitting - probably has something to do with leaving it keyed on all night.
but the neutral light is working again now, so that's another plus.
The first thing that I think is that when your friend "rebuilt" the carb, he probably screwed something up. I'd check the fuel screw, make sure that's about 2 1/4 turns out from being fully in. If he just put the screw all the way in, as i'm suspecting, it wouldn't get any fuel at idle. The fuel screw is under the carb towards the front, recessed in a hole.
Thanks, not a friend, just the guy selling it - but I will check that out and see if it is correct.
you happen to know what size of bolt holds the gas tank on? it had only a few bolts on it when I got it. I was able to match up the small ones holding the plastics etc on, but not the larger diameter bolts.
thanks!
you happen to know what size of bolt holds the gas tank on? it had only a few bolts on it when I got it. I was able to match up the small ones holding the plastics etc on, but not the larger diameter bolts.
thanks!
1998yamahawarrior
Well-Known Member
yep your right yamarider ive had my front plastics off so many times in 09 it wasnt funny.
Score! it's alive!
adjusted the idle screw to what I thought was 2 1/4, charged up the battery and hit it with the juice. it started up but would die off after a few seconds when revving it up.
gave it another 1/4 turn on the idle screw, squirted it, started it and was able to keep it running. gotta get that exhaust on there - thing is a flamethrower
killed the motor, cracked the throttle a bit, and tried to start it with no juice, started right up and revs up with out sputtering - just flames.
the exhaust did come with it, just not attached, it rattles inside, but will it be ok until I can get something else? I assume it needs something on there to run happily, quietly and legally?
Thanks again guys - still lots of work to get it up to where it needs to be - but starting is good!
adjusted the idle screw to what I thought was 2 1/4, charged up the battery and hit it with the juice. it started up but would die off after a few seconds when revving it up.
gave it another 1/4 turn on the idle screw, squirted it, started it and was able to keep it running. gotta get that exhaust on there - thing is a flamethrower
killed the motor, cracked the throttle a bit, and tried to start it with no juice, started right up and revs up with out sputtering - just flames.
the exhaust did come with it, just not attached, it rattles inside, but will it be ok until I can get something else? I assume it needs something on there to run happily, quietly and legally?
Thanks again guys - still lots of work to get it up to where it needs to be - but starting is good!
Got the back and the tank bolted down and took it out tonight. took a few moments to get it running smooth, kept dying at idle, so I think I will back that idle screw out another 1/4 turn.
went around the block a few times, got up to 2nd gear - as fast as I want to go in the dark, snow, no headlight - never running it before.
header was glowing red after just a few minutes of running - not even hard on the throttle, is that normal?
and it still dumped fuel out the overflow before it started and when I turned it off.
went around the block a few times, got up to 2nd gear - as fast as I want to go in the dark, snow, no headlight - never running it before.
header was glowing red after just a few minutes of running - not even hard on the throttle, is that normal?
and it still dumped fuel out the overflow before it started and when I turned it off.
