97 warrior problems

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warriordude

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first off let me say i know nothing about 4 wheelers..i just picked up a 97 warrior 350(for $500) it seems when im at full throttle it boggs down..we cleaned the carb...should i clean it again? and it makes a kinda loud tick i thought it was the valves but i was told that it may be a lose timming chain..is there any way to tighten it?..o the machine is bored 30 over and has a dg exhaust.. any help would be great...thanks.
 
If by bogs you mean slows and sounds like its bouncing off of a rev limiter, your running rich. As for the ticking you probably need to adjust valve lash. There is a downloadable repair manual on here that has all the specs.
 
Cant tighten a timing chain if it is loose, have to replace it. What is you cam chain tensioner lookin like? It boggs at WOT? Sound like your main is too rich. Long as all the other things (AF mix, clip) are stock. What mods you have? (filter, pipe)
 
Cant tighten a timing chain if it is loose, have to replace it. What is you cam chain tensioner lookin like? It boggs at WOT? Sound like your main is too rich. Long as all the other things (AF mix, clip) are stock. What mods you have? (filter, pipe)

im not sure what the tensioner looks like i dont know how to look at it..lol...and it only cuts out/bogs when im at full throttole...and i bought the bike about a month ago and the only thing the guy told me was that it was bored 80 over.. and it has a dg muffler..
 
whats the filter? It's gotta be jetted but perhaps to much on the main?

Tensioner is on the back left side of the jug, has a bolt on top of a T shaped casting and that casting has two bolts holding it into the jug.
 
whats the filter? It's gotta be jetted but perhaps to much on the main?

Tensioner is on the back left side of the jug, has a bolt on top of a T shaped casting and that casting has two bolts holding it into the jug.

i will check the tensioner tmorrow..and how do i figure out if its jetted to rich? and the filter looks stock.
 
how do i figure out if its jetted to rich?

because it bogs at WOT one reason for that is to big of main jet. Your main jet should have a # on it. Do you know what it is? I think the tick and bog are seperate issues. The tick could be vavles need adjustment, or a stretched timing chain. I'd adjust the vavles 1st since it doesn't require replacing any parts. therre is a walkthough on how to do it in the instuction section
 
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i just read the post a few up about popping in the cab and mine does the same thing..but mine does it at idle..it pops so hard that it moves the carb and it almost stalls..i have messed with the bigger screw on the carb to adjust the idle up and down..it seems to go away at higher idle..
also its still cutting out like its hitting a rev limitter at wide open throttle..
 
and in any o ther stage of the throttle its runs fine? are you sure the timing is set right?
 
and in any o ther stage of the throttle its runs fine? are you sure the timing is set right?

yeah it seems to run fine at other stages but WOT its cuts out...and im not sure about the timing.. i bought the bike the way it is about a month ago..i dont know anything about small engines, im learning as i go..
 
ON the left side of the crank case there should be a black plastic plug with a large flat tip screwdriver slot in it. pull that off, then pull plug and put it in gear roll it till you see a T line up with the mark down through the hole on the flywheel. make sure its a T not F then pull the cover on the left side of the cylinder head to reveal the cam sprocket there should be an index mark on the cam cam spocket and if it doesnt line up with the one on th head your timings off
 
I had a very similar problem to what you are describing ... The bike would run awesome all the way up to Wide open throttle then after a min or two it would bog hard as hell and I would lose most of my power...id have to slow way down and run her at three quarter throttle just to get back ... Turns out the fuel petcock valve was partly clogged on the inside(it has two screens inside that act as a fuel filter, one on the "reserve" setting and one on the "on" setting). Even though I had cleaned the gas tank out many times I was never able to get down to the lowest point of the tank where the petcock is...it had a ton of **** built up on the screens... i cleaned the holes out best i could and put a new petcock in and have not had a problem ever since .... worth a try .. think i paid 25$ for it ... Goodluck
 
ON the left side of the crank case there should be a black plastic plug with a large flat tip screwdriver slot in it. pull that off, then pull plug and put it in gear roll it till you see a T line up with the mark down through the hole on the flywheel. make sure its a T not F then pull the cover on the left side of the cylinder head to reveal the cam sprocket there should be an index mark on the cam cam spocket and if it doesnt line up with the one on th head your timings off

I had a very similar problem to what you are describing ... The bike would run awesome all the way up to Wide open throttle then after a min or two it would bog hard as hell and I would lose most of my power...id have to slow way down and run her at three quarter throttle just to get back ... Turns out the fuel petcock valve was partly clogged on the inside(it has two screens inside that act as a fuel filter, one on the "reserve" setting and one on the "on" setting). Even though I had cleaned the gas tank out many times I was never able to get down to the lowest point of the tank where the petcock is...it had a ton of **** built up on the screens... i cleaned the holes out best i could and put a new petcock in and have not had a problem ever since .... worth a try .. think i paid 25$ for it ... Goodluck

i will check the timing and after that i will try to petcock thing..thank you both very much.
 
i checked the timing marks and couldnt find the 1 on the head...and what is this thing it was lose???
 

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the timing mark on the head is at about 11 o'clock it is just a little bump around the edge. The ting you are pointing at is the chain slide for your timing chain.
 
the timing mark on the head is at about 11 o'clock it is just a little bump around the edge. The ting you are pointing at is the chain slide for your timing chain.

is the chain slid suppose to move? and should the timing chain be really tight or a little lose?
 
Oh snap that ain't right that guide is supposed to be under the head not loose like that there is a slot it sets in the head just to the left of were the screw driver is in the pic you can't put it back unless you take the head off about a inch and you will nead a new head gasket
 
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