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I just did the math on the stack thickness. Going with all .077" steel plates and no extra gets you almost the same thickness as doing the stock setup with the extra plate. The stock setup with the extra plate gets you a stack that measures roughly 1.309". Doing all thick steel plates and no extra gets you a stack that measures roughly 1.302". .007" is close enough that I think that is the way I will do my final clutch on my project engine.

Here's something, for what it's worth......

After rebuilding a few TH350 auto trans, I have found that a few of them had a basket that would accept a complete extra fiber and steel set. So I added another steel and fiber and was still within spec and clearance.

I learned that there was more friction surface material and hence the clutch pack would last longer, in miles and heat. (Heat is the death of an auto tranny)

So after doing the math, I'd go with the thinnest materials, so that I could have more plates and fibers in the stack.

And if I was on the fat side of the measurements..............

I might back off the pressure plate bolts to create room for spring collapse.......:haha:

Either way, I hope that it all works out.......

-Rhyno
 
I have an extra Warrior clutch hub and pressure plate that are worn where the lining face rides. When we get our lathe motor back on, I am going to toy with machining the two parts and see if I can get one more fiber in there. I bet it can be done with the thinner steel plates. On a few of my turbo 350 trans, we took v-6 piston assemblies and machined them to get extra linings in. In that same process we are able to tighten up the clutch packs and make them work better.
 
I have an extra Warrior clutch hub and pressure plate that are worn where the lining face rides. When we get our lathe motor back on, I am going to toy with machining the two parts and see if I can get one more fiber in there. I bet it can be done with the thinner steel plates. On a few of my turbo 350 trans, we took v-6 piston assemblies and machined them to get extra linings in. In that same process we are able to tighten up the clutch packs and make them work better.



:tup:
 
Our trans guy just built an allison for one of our customers to handle 1200hp. Besides the heavy duty clutch packs, in went a 1/2" thick pressure plate in the c2 clutch, if I remember correctly. Putting it back in the truck now, just eating lunch at the moment.
 
when i took out the clutch there were only 7 fiber plates and the clutch kit i ordered came with 8 plates??
 
i put all 8 in already? My clutch kit said " Note: Before installing your tusk clutch kit, be sure to remove all of your stock friction plates, drive plates, and any spacers or clutch boss springs (if applicable). Your tusk clutch kit will be replacing your entire stock clutch stack."
 
i put all 8 in already? My clutch kit said " Note: Before installing your tusk clutch kit, be sure to remove all of your stock friction plates, drive plates, and any spacers or clutch boss springs (if applicable). Your tusk clutch kit will be replacing your entire stock clutch stack."

Those, sound like pretty clear directions......

Ultimately, the overall Thickness measurement is what matters.....

Time to get out your measuring stick..........and do some math and homework.......

-Rhyno
 
Take the steels and rub them in a circular motion on a flat concrete floor for 10secs or so, to scuff em up. It helps to remove any glazing or stuck on oil residue.

Cement, Really?

What about your Mystery Oil, will that take the glaze off? Lacquer thinner?

How about a 2" ScotchBrite and a Die Grinder?

What if they have Heat Checks, in them?

Just looking for an answer......

-Rhyno
 
Cement, Really?

What about your Mystery Oil, will that take the glaze off? Lacquer thinner?

How about a 2" ScotchBrite and a Die Grinder?

What if they have Heat Checks, in them?

Just looking for an answer......

-Rhyno
We glass bead blast them. Have always done automotive ones that way too. If they have heat checks in them, they need replaced. Usually when they get hot enough to put heat checks, they are warped anyway.

From my measurements the other night, the stack needs to measure roughly 1.310" or less to be able to keep from coil binding the springs. If you can get that thickness with 8 fibers then that would be great. More fiber linings is always a good thing.
 
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Cement, Really?

What about your Mystery Oil, will that take the glaze off? Lacquer thinner?

How about a 2" ScotchBrite and a Die Grinder?

What if they have Heat Checks, in them?

Just looking for an answer......

-Rhyno



Dude, you are not looking for an answer, you are looking for a fight. Using the concrete is not bad for it, and will help to scuff up and remove stuck on oil residue. Just to rub then on a flat concrete floor will not make them warp. It's not like he will be standing on them, and twisting them like he's puttin out a cigarete butt. Me, I just replace them. But for those without the money or the tools the above mentioned way does work for them. If you are reusing steels you should always atleast deglaze them, it is correct practice. Just like deglazing a cylinder.
 
We glass bead blast them. Have always done automotive ones that way too. If they have heat checks in them, they need replaced. Usually when they get hot enough to put heat checks, they are warped anyway.

From my measurements the other night, the stack needs to measure roughly 1.310" or less to be able to keep from coil binding the springs. If you can get that thickness with 8 fibers then that would be great. More fiber linings is always a good thing.


Thanks for the measurements. Thats the step I didn't take....

:tup:

-Rhyno
 
Raptor 350 clutch tip

Make sure that the arrows on the clutch boss and the back plate line up it will only go one way so make sure you check that as well
 
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