Engine oil

[griff]

griff technically its not....go call an Amsoil rep and they will tell you...you want proof...go here http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/motorcycle_oil_technical_facts.htm ....go down to, "Synthetics and Slipperiness in Relation to Roller Rockers and Wet Clutches" section if im wrong then your saying Amsoil and they are wrong...

Technically, it is. And that article is a bit off in many areas. A lot of that BS is the same propaganda spewed by the MC oil industry. Their diatribe about Friction Modifiers is bull, if the oil contains either type of moly', molybdenum disulfide, or molybdenum dithiophosphate, then it contains FM's. There are several MA rated oils that contain moly' dithiophosphate.

Roller rockers are designed to work with a specific friction coefficient, it is part their design. Diesel engines with roller rockers require diesel specific oil, the trick is in the additive package to meet that required friction coefficient.

Comparing that to a wet-clutch system in a motorcycle, is at best, intellectually dishonest. The mechanical properties and function of both are quite different.

Theres a reason auto oils arent supposed to be used in diesels, the roller rockers dont roll. Once they wear with the slightest flat spot, thats it, its only a matter of time before they really start tearing **** up.

A lot of that info isnt even from Amsoil. BTW, I'm a card-carrying Amsoil Preferred Account holder, I use it in both my truck and car.

 

[griff]

Ive been using Rotella T 15w40 for about a year now... Id move to the synthetic, however the only grade i find around here is maybe a 5w40 is this ok for summer riding? what grade synthetic rotella do you run?

The 5w40 is good all year around. When up to operating temp, its still a 40w oil, just like the 15w40.

The difference is that when cold, it starts as a 5w rather that a 15w. The thinner startup weight will actually make it a bit easier to start, and work better in colder weather.

 

[Guest]

lol well i dno i guess theres too many factors...too many mixed opinions and nobody really knows what info is legit or not...but if im wrong then there wrong first...lol and jason wtfever jibber jabber you wrote was pointless.

 

[jasonp]

griff technically its not....go call an Amsoil rep and they will tell you...you want proof...go here http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/motorcycle_oil_technical_facts.htm ....go down to, "Synthetics and Slipperiness in Relation to Roller Rockers and Wet Clutches" section if im wrong then your saying Amsoil and they are wrong...

Technically, it is. And that article is a bit off in many areas. A lot of that BS is the same propaganda spewed by the MC oil industry. Their diatribe about Friction Modifiers is bull, if the oil contains either type of moly', molybdenum disulfide, or molybdenum dithiophosphate, then it contains FM's. There are several MA rated oils that contain moly' dithiophosphate.

Roller rockers are designed to work with a specific friction coefficient, it is part their design. Diesel engines with roller rockers require diesel specific oil, the trick is in the additive package to meet that required friction coefficient.

Comparing that to a wet-clutch system in a motorcycle, is at best, intellectually dishonest. The mechanical properties and function of both are quite different.

Theres a reason auto oils arent supposed to be used in diesels, the roller rockers dont roll. Once they wear with the slightest flat spot, thats it, its only a matter of time before they really start tearing **** up.

A lot of that info isnt even from Amsoil. BTW, I'm a card-carrying Amsoil Preferred Account holder, I use it in both my truck and car.

interesting info! Thank you. I don't know much about oil so this is pretty cool stuff.
Any truth to diesels being dirtier engines so they use different additives to help the oil last longer then say an auto style oil?

 

[jasonp]

lol well i dno i guess theres too many factors...too many mixed opinions and nobody really knows what info is legit or not...but if im wrong then there wrong first...lol and jason wtfever jibber jabber you wrote was pointless.

I don't know much about the subject and was looking for some info to some of my questions. Stuff I basically don't understand or why that would happen if the oil wasn't slippier. If you could provide me with some info dispelling that it would be great, but judging by your previous post I don't think that will happen.

 

[Guest]

nah im done talking to you losers about this topic im not getting anywhere with it believe what you want about oils but nobody it seems knows the real truth...if you think what im saying is wrong than i guess you all are the only right ones...lol so just keep at and jason you gotta be the biggest smartass on here or at least it seems that way...

 

[Guest]

and griff that was from Amsoil...read around the site a little more before you open your mouth so i guess your just right and people at Amsoil are wrong of course...lol so full of yourself

 

[Guest]

its your switching of oils causes the slipage...not just becuz its synthetic causes it too slip...you switching causes a slipage yes...but in general synthetic doesnt make a difference in the "slipage"lol just to clear that up

 

[jasonp]

and griff that was from Amsoil...read around the site a little more before you open your mouth so i guess your just right and people at Amsoil are wrong of course...lol so full of yourself

I'm drawing the line right here. You can call me any name in the book and tell me I'm the biggest ******* prick but you will not do this to one of are supporting members. You're done.

 

[griff]

and griff that was from Amsoil...read around the site a little more before you open your mouth so i guess your just right and people at Amsoil are wrong of course...lol so full of yourself

No, a lot of that info was from SmartSynthetics, who is a RESELLER of Amsoil. They are not Amsoil themselves.

Doh, I see Jason canned your ass..... lol.

 

[griff]

interesting info! Thank you. I don't know much about oil so this is pretty cool stuff.
Any truth to diesels being dirtier engines so they use different additives to help the oil last longer then say an auto style oil?

Generally speaking, yes. Its a natural part of diesel combustion, and it doesnt help that the diesel fuels in the US kinda suck. IIRC diesel oils tend to have more of a specific additive for acid-reduction, but I cant remember which one it is for sure... I think potassium? I'm sure theres other stuff used that does the same thing though.

 

[paulie1959]

I use mobil 1 0w-30 with out a problem on my Raptor and warrior, On all air cooled engines I would use a blent or synthetic because ther are so much better with heat, Ive check my Raptor oil temp. in the summer and it was over 250 deg. but on my water cooled engines I use cheaper oil, but change all oils often .

 

[KennyRogers]

I don't really know whats the best out there but Im using yamalube for my atv. I got a 4 stroke engine oil.

 

[Kason]

Is 10w-30 or 10w-40 better for a Yamaha warrior 350

 

[YamahaNutz]

Is 10w-30 or 10w-40 better for a Yamaha warrior 350

I stick with what they call for from the factory which is 10w-40. Unless your only riding it below freezing outdoor temps. And I only use JASO MA2 oil after frying a newer clutch on Penzoil Platinum oil change. I change mine annually with Super Tech full synthetic 4-stroke motorcycle oil(cheapest rated oil at walfart) now and have had no issues.

It's always a debate. What is commonly agreed upon is on a worn engine, don't do any major change in oil weight from what it was ran with before.