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Can still have 4 wheel ABS. But, most of those body style trucks only came with rear ABS.
 
That's what I would do but my dad wants me to have abs.
If the light is on it means that there's a problem with the ABS and I believe it just automatically disables it until you fix the problem. So you can drive it forever as is and as long as you don't lock up the brakes you'll have no problems, just that unattractive light will stay on forever lol.
 
The check engine light and abs have become my dash board friends lol
(Changed the injector timing and rear wheel sensor is bad)
 
The check engine light and abs have become my dash board friends lol
(Changed the injector timing and rear wheel sensor is bad)

haha they will be my dash board friends for a while too lol (o2 sensors)

Edit: My brother just covers his with electrical tape lol
 
haha they will be my dash board friends for a while too lol (o2 sensors)

Edit: My brother just covers his with electrical tape lol

o2 sensors are not expensive for that truck. Replace them so your fuel mileage does not suffer. Find out what ABS codes are in the system and fix it if it bothers you. Just remember that in wet and snowy weather the brakes will lock up easier without the ABS working. That is why all older, pre ABS vehicles had to have the brake pedal pumped when braking, so you would not go into a skid.
 
o2 sensors are not expensive for that truck. Replace them so your fuel mileage does not suffer. Find out what ABS codes are in the system and fix it if it bothers you. Just remember that in wet and snowy weather the brakes will lock up easier without the ABS working. That is why all older, pre ABS vehicles had to have the brake pedal pumped when braking, so you would not go into a skid.

I will replace them then and probably take a look at the abs
 
i'm a toyota fan... i have two lol. a '78 wolverine with a 20r (very rare truck) and a '97 4wd reg cab tacoma with a 2.7 4 banger with 331000 on the original motor and clutch... i know pretty much everything there is to know about toyota's from the 20r through the 1st gen tacoma's. the 20r and 22r are useless for anything ecept hauling in the bed (had 1500 pounds of crap in my '78 on 31's with no probs) the efi 22re does better (have a friend that pulls a 18' bass boat with his up and down the mountains of north GA. the tacoma's are the ****! the 2.7 3rz has plenty of power from the factory and mine does 25+ mpg hwy with stock gears and 31's. pulls a loaded tandem axle steel 16' trailer with no problems. the 3.0 and 3.4 v6 has gobs of low end torque but run high rpms at 70-75mph... have head gasket problems that can only be fixed with true dual exhaust... had a 3.0 in a 93 lol.

Chevy... i love em! i have a 2000 2500 for working around the property SUCKS GAS. also have a '69 c10 step side that i'm restoring.

ford sucks (sorry ford fans) transmissions suck, motors suck, like the bodies and damn stout built frames and running gear (swap in a chevy power train and ya got gold... built ford tough with chevy stuff)

dodge sucks unless it's a cummins... sorry dodge fans.

my grammer sucks... i've had a few... to many (sorry readers)
 
i'm a toyota fan... i have two lol. a '78 wolverine with a 20r (very rare truck) and a '97 4wd reg cab tacoma with a 2.7 4 banger with 331000 on the original motor and clutch... i know pretty much everything there is to know about toyota's from the 20r through the 1st gen tacoma's. the 20r and 22r are useless for anything ecept hauling in the bed (had 1500 pounds of crap in my '78 on 31's with no probs) the efi 22re does better (have a friend that pulls a 18' bass boat with his up and down the mountains of north GA. the tacoma's are the ****! the 2.7 3rz has plenty of power from the factory and mine does 25+ mpg hwy with stock gears and 31's. pulls a loaded tandem axle steel 16' trailer with no problems. the 3.0 and 3.4 v6 has gobs of low end torque but run high rpms at 70-75mph... have head gasket problems that can only be fixed with true dual exhaust... had a 3.0 in a 93 lol.

Chevy... i love em! i have a 2000 2500 for working around the property SUCKS GAS. also have a '69 c10 step side that i'm restoring.

ford sucks (sorry ford fans) transmissions suck, motors suck, like the bodies and damn stout built frames and running gear (swap in a chevy power train and ya got gold... built ford tough with chevy stuff)

dodge sucks unless it's a cummins... sorry dodge fans.

my grammer sucks... i've had a few... to many (sorry readers)

Well you don't buy a full size truck for gas mileage, lol.

I have to disagree on the Ford frames though. GM has them beat there as well. GM has more crossmembers, and has fully boxed frames. Haven't had any new (within the last 3 years) Fords on the lift, but, GM is Hydroformed, fully boxed, A dozen crossmembers, 3" wide leafs, larger torsion bars, bigger rear, bigger brakes, larger tie rods, and more, then the previous generation. Dodge is probably equal to GM in the chassis department. They've been running fully boxed frames since the mid 90's when the new body style came out. They just needed more crossmembers to tie it all together.

Have also replaced many rear diffs in the Fords do to carrier and pinion bearing failures. Not one GM, or Dodge for the matter, in any 2500-2500 truck.
 
Now see, I love torsion bars and hate solid axles, lol. Also, no offset ball joints or bushings to install on a GM to accomplish an alignment ;) What have you been up to anyway, WG? How's progress on your C-10???
 
ah same ol **** lol. i have the frame ready for powder coat. have all the patch panels on the way. finding a trans is holding me up
 
i'm a toyota fan... i have two lol. a '78 wolverine with a 20r (very rare truck) and a '97 4wd reg cab tacoma with a 2.7 4 banger with 331000 on the original motor and clutch... i know pretty much everything there is to know about toyota's from the 20r through the 1st gen tacoma's. the 20r and 22r are useless for anything ecept hauling in the bed (had 1500 pounds of crap in my '78 on 31's with no probs) the efi 22re does better (have a friend that pulls a 18' bass boat with his up and down the mountains of north GA. the tacoma's are the ****! the 2.7 3rz has plenty of power from the factory and mine does 25+ mpg hwy with stock gears and 31's. pulls a loaded tandem axle steel 16' trailer with no problems. the 3.0 and 3.4 v6 has gobs of low end torque but run high rpms at 70-75mph... have head gasket problems that can only be fixed with true dual exhaust... had a 3.0 in a 93 lol.

Chevy... i love em! i have a 2000 2500 for working around the property SUCKS GAS. also have a '69 c10 step side that i'm restoring.

ford sucks (sorry ford fans) transmissions suck, motors suck, like the bodies and damn stout built frames and running gear (swap in a chevy power train and ya got gold... built ford tough with chevy stuff)

dodge sucks unless it's a cummins... sorry dodge fans.

my grammer sucks... i've had a few... to many (sorry readers)

I'm a yoter fan as well but I like the gmt400 body stile and I like the older Chevys so I went chevy, but in a few years I would like to get a pre 95 yoter preferably like an 83 body stile truck with the 22r or re
 
i'm a toyota fan... i have two lol. a '78 wolverine with a 20r (very rare truck) and a '97 4wd reg cab tacoma with a 2.7 4 banger with 331000 on the original motor and clutch... i know pretty much everything there is to know about toyota's from the 20r through the 1st gen tacoma's. the 20r and 22r are useless for anything ecept hauling in the bed (had 1500 pounds of crap in my '78 on 31's with no probs) the efi 22re does better (have a friend that pulls a 18' bass boat with his up and down the mountains of north GA. the tacoma's are the ****! the 2.7 3rz has plenty of power from the factory and mine does 25+ mpg hwy with stock gears and 31's. pulls a loaded tandem axle steel 16' trailer with no problems. the 3.0 and 3.4 v6 has gobs of low end torque but run high rpms at 70-75mph... have head gasket problems that can only be fixed with true dual exhaust... had a 3.0 in a 93 lol.

Chevy... i love em! i have a 2000 2500 for working around the property SUCKS GAS. also have a '69 c10 step side that i'm restoring.

ford sucks (sorry ford fans) transmissions suck, motors suck, like the bodies and damn stout built frames and running gear (swap in a chevy power train and ya got gold... built ford tough with chevy stuff)

dodge sucks unless it's a cummins... sorry dodge fans.

my grammer sucks... i've had a few... to many (sorry readers)

Can you post some pics of the wolverine?
 
ah same ol **** lol. i have the frame ready for powder coat. have all the patch panels on the way. finding a trans is holding me up

Hahaha, damn!!! Sounds like you and I are in the same boat. Right down to the trans! You still looking for a Muncie? I've decided to go with the T5Z for my car. Still $1700 new :/ Just recently finished swapping over the whole driver's side front uni-body rail. Including the fender apron, shock tower and fender trough. Got to do lots of welding ;)
 
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yoters had 20r (better motor IMO with the factory double roller timing and such) until 1980 i believe. then came the 22r with it's single roller timing, bigger bore, and 6 more horse power. and the RE is the exact engine with a EFI intake manifold.










and the taco


Pat... yeah still searching for that pefect muncie that tickles my fancy. i'd rather find a crappy used one and build it how i want it. mine is all small ****... cab corner, rocker panels, kick panels and i'm done with weld in... rest is bolt on. driver front fender and possibly a rear but that one is $500 so i'mma try and save mine lol.
 
You're lucky. I've still got to do the rear 1/3 of my trunk floor, trunk drop offs, lower rear quarters, and the very bottom of the front quarters (in front of the rear wheels). I have all the panels, including a new trunk floor. Will have the time come this weekend with the time change to start on them.

Have you given any thought in using the Tremec TKO500? Better cruising RPM with 5th gear, and obviously new. Not that I'd turn down a Muncie!

Rears are too damn expensive anymore. I have two AMC 20 v8 rears to replace the little AMC15 in my car. Will be putting 4.10 in it, locker, and rebuilding it. Stock axle shafts will be fine for the 4.6 I6 stroker I'm going to build (280-300hp, 330-350ftlbs). 4.10, 25.1" tall tires, 0.63 5th gear will turn 2075rpm at 60mph.

Oh, if you need help tickling that fancy of yours, I'm perfectly fine whoring myself out to you ;) ;)
 
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yoters had 20r (better motor IMO with the factory double roller timing and such) until 1980 i believe. then came the 22r with it's single roller timing, bigger bore, and 6 more horse power. and the RE is the exact engine with a EFI intake manifold.










and the taco


Pat... yeah still searching for that pefect muncie that tickles my fancy. i'd rather find a crappy used one and build it how i want it. mine is all small ****... cab corner, rocker panels, kick panels and i'm done with weld in... rest is bolt on. driver front fender and possibly a rear but that one is $500 so i'mma try and save mine lol.

Nice yoter and nice c10 do you have a build log? How much is a yota like that worth with the 20r
 
You're lucky. I've still got to do the rear 1/3 of my trunk floor, trunk drop offs, lower rear quarters, and the very bottom of the front quarters (in front of the rear wheels). I have all the panels, including a new trunk floor. Will have the time come this weekend with the time change to start on them.

Have you given any thought in using the Tremec TKO500? Better cruising RPM with 5th gear, and obviously new. Not that I'd turn down a Muncie!

Rears are too damn expensive anymore. I have two AMC 20 v8 rears to replace the little AMC15 in my car. Will be putting 4.10 in it, locker, and rebuilding it. Stock axle shafts will be fine for the 4.6 I6 stroker I'm going to build (280-300hp, 330-350ftlbs). 4.10, 25.1" tall tires, 0.63 5th gear will turn 2075rpm at 60mph.

Oh, if you need help tickling that fancy of yours, I'm perfectly fine whoring myself out to you ;) ;)

i wanna keep it as period correct as possible... and i dont see myself driving it cross country so cruising rpm is no concern. i'm building my 12 bolt... converting to full float with moser 5 lug shafts.

2000

setting like it is about $8k. put back in nice shape (working on it) about $15k. they only made it for 3 years and around 8 thousand a year. about 95% of those 24 thousand trucks are rusted away and or crushed. i would be comfortable in saying i have one of probably less that a few hundred left. built in japan as a 2wd and shipped to america and converted to 4wd with a jeep cj5 dana 30 front axle and dana 20 transfer case that was adapted to the factory 2wd trans and still running the 5lug 2wd rear axle... all a dealer option that you could order in '76 '77 '78.
 
i wanna keep it as period correct as possible... and i dont see myself driving it cross country so cruising rpm is no concern. i'm building my 12 bolt... converting to full float with moser 5 lug shafts.

Can't fault you for that. And, if you are not planning on long road trips, like I am, then 4 speeds will be plenty. I plan to drive the piss out of my Javelin when it's finished, or near finished, lol. I was going to stick with carb for simplicity, and because that's what the car came with, but, using the 4.0L block means no mechanical fuel pump provisions. So, I'll have to use an electric pump and fuel pressure regulator. If I'm going to have to do that, and if I have to deal with emissions once I move to Arizona, going EFI will be the better choice. So, GM TBI it is! Now I have to buy the tuning software and DLC cables... Costs the same as the average 4 barrel, but I get to use it over and over on numerous cars.
 
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