my gears are still turning!

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couldnt have said my words better although the head isnt 100% worthless them raptor 250s are putting down some serous power and thats the same head design. but yes the internals just take longer to get inertia

True the heads not "worthless" But compare them to a 450 head and we're comparing a ford fesiva to the new 5.0 mustang.
 

if i understand correctly that should flow better correct? it wouldnt need to turn around in the frame if you put the head on backwards to make the timing chain work couldnt you run the carb and exhaust backwards too? granted you could fit it in the frame?

ps the xt350 is a 86mm bore 59.6mm stroke so it would be at about 379cc+- a cc or two with stock stroke if you +4 stroke it with a .080 over piston its a 414cc+-1or 2 cc that would be interesting!
 
I ride a KFX450R piped and tuned so yes i know how a 450 revs, thank you.

it will pull and rev just as quick with 14/40 gearing as my kfx will till i hit 6th then it plains out but it is very lean so i haven't been riding it much its a bit of a side project but i invite you to come down here and try it for yourself! i will even let you ride my kfx if it makes you feel better about it

PS i know my stuff and i can easly say with the setup i currently have this will beat any stock 450 except a ktm around a track easly


http://www.moddedraptor.com/communi...-450-vs-450-got-em-all-here-except-ds450.html

I going to have to call bs on you again man. There is no way a warrior with your mod list has what it would take to beat any of these 450's. Nor with that hotcam does it rev like one. I've got alot more engine work done then you and a much bigger cam and my fourwheeler comes no where close to touching a stock 450 let alone a piped one. I know because I ride with a buddy that has a yfz 450r and also own a raptor 700.

Give it a rest man it's gets old. Lets be realistic here.
 
http://www.moddedraptor.com/communi...-450-vs-450-got-em-all-here-except-ds450.html

I going to have to call bs on you again man. There is no way a warrior with your mod list has what it would take to beat any of these 450's. Nor with that hotcam does it rev like one. I've got alot more engine work done then you and a much bigger cam and my fourwheeler comes no where close to touching a stock 450 let alone a piped one. I know because I ride with a buddy that has a yfz 450r and also own a raptor 700.

Give it a rest man it's gets old. Lets be realistic here.

Ok fine then you know how yours runs i know how mine runs and untill i get it dynoed its just butting heads, so can we get back to the thread topic and whether or not i will see a difference in going 1.5 mm bigger carb bore?
 
http://www.moddedraptor.com/communi...-450-vs-450-got-em-all-here-except-ds450.html

I going to have to call bs on you again man. There is no way a warrior with your mod list has what it would take to beat any of these 450's. Nor with that hotcam does it rev like one. I've got alot more engine work done then you and a much bigger cam and my fourwheeler comes no where close to touching a stock 450 let alone a piped one. I know because I ride with a buddy that has a yfz 450r and also own a raptor 700.

Give it a rest man it's gets old. Lets be realistic here.

Ok fine then you know how yours runs i know how mine runs and untill i get it dynoed its just butting heads, so can we get back to the thread topic and whether or not i will see a difference in going 1.5 mm bigger carb bore?


:popcorn: Hahaha Jasonp knows his stuff

Anyway, depends how its bored. Boring the center will mess with the slide closed. But just boring the inlet and outlet wont do anything unless the middle is hogged out... My suggestion is get that 39 fcr you posted in the deals thread!:iagree: It'll out perform that mikuni. Even the Edle has a ton better throttle response than the mikuni.
 
i know you want to buy it and send it my way? ill get it worked out :tup:

scott i just txt ya

current setup is a 330 main needle on the second slot from the bottom planning on adjusting that in a min and plug chopping it and reading it again
 
plug is reding a light tan i think its the needle that is not letting it have enough fuel so if i change anything on this thing i will need to re-turn this thing to size it like i need it i may even mod it to stage 5 specs hmmm maybe if i can find a second needle
 
plug is reding a light tan i think its the needle that is not letting it have enough fuel so if i change anything on this thing i will need to re-turn this thing to size it like i need it i may even mod it to stage 5 specs hmmm maybe if i can find a second needle

Dude all you have to do is richen the main up until the engine starts to miss at high RPM. As you work richer the engine will miss at a lower RPM. It will feel and sound like a rev limit. As you work back lean it will start to sound clean. The most power will be had right at the point were the engine runs clean all the way to the top from where it just misses. It will be 1 to 2 half sizes from that.

I found an easy way to tune the needle is just when you in 6th gear wide open back the throttle down to 1/2-3/4 so you are on the needle. If the engine misses then you need to go richer. If the engine is flat then it's lean. I like to work rich backwards from rich to lean on both needle and main.
 
Dude all you have to do is richen the main up until the engine starts to miss at high RPM. As you work richer the engine will miss at a lower RPM. It will feel and sound like a rev limit. As you work back lean it will start to sound clean. The most power will be had right at the point were the engine runs clean all the way to the top from where it just misses. It will be 1 to 2 half sizes from that.

I found an easy way to tune the needle is just when you in 6th gear wide open back the throttle down to 1/2-3/4 so you are on the needle. If the engine misses then you need to go richer. If the engine is flat then it's lean. I like to work rich backwards from rich to lean on both needle and main.

i would try that but it pulls the same. smooth as glass through the gears

the last jetting jump i did was a 270-330 6 sizes and felt no noticeable difference in the motor attitude and it was still showing lean on the plug so i moved the needle down a slot to the bottom notch and now it is a light tan on the plug if you chop it at WOT. so i think its the needle thats the limiting factor at this point
 
i would try that but it pulls the same. smooth as glass through the gears

the last jetting jump i did was a 270-330 6 sizes and felt no noticeable difference in the motor attitude and it was still showing lean on the plug so i moved the needle down a slot to the bottom notch and now it is a light tan on the plug if you chop it at WOT. so i think its the needle thats the limiting factor at this point


At wot the needle should be fully out of the main jet and not effect that mixture block.

I would tune in this order.
fuel screw/pilot air jet.. 1/4 throttle.
main jet.
needle.

I have found this to be the best way to tune and simplest. If you adjust out of this order sometimes you will have to go back and re adjust or change a jet.
 

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