Slug issues.

Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum

Help Support Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Nov 20, 2011
Messages
20
Reaction score
0
So My freind bought a 01 warrior, dropped it off at my house and said make it run. Well it ran but there was lots of hillbilly engineering in there. iInitial ride It would go but with no torque, no power, you would struggle getting to 4th gear, some back firing, and just crap. after inspection I see I replaced the carb to head boot, new airbox, rebuilt carb, rejetted, adjused float. I am confident of the carb. At this oint it does the same thing still. Starts right up, idles fine, reves fine, smokes a little, putit in gear and its far from a thrill ride, struggle to get to 4th. I am thinking now that I should probably do a compression test. Either way I think he is looking at cam chain, piston,cylinder, head. What are some of your thoughts?Am i missing something? Barncat adjusted the valves for me, that helped the noise.
 
Yes? If your thinking the brake might be dragging, thats not the problem. Not trying to be arrogant, but this def in the motor/elect somewhere. But not to be proven wrong I will surly check. ;)
 
Yes? If your thinking the brake might be dragging, thats not the problem. Not trying to be arrogant, but this def in the motor/elect somewhere. But not to be proven wrong I will surly check. ;)

Im talking about the electrical connector that tells the cdi if the ebrake is on. If its still there and malfunctioning it will only let it rev to about 2000 rpms.
 
It also wouldn't be a bad idea to check cam timing on it, if the chain has stretched considerably that's not helping. It sounds like it hasn't had much maintenance so you couls have a combination of things going on, compression, timing, stuff like that. On the electrical side, make sure the pb switch isn't causing issues. You didn't really describe what it's doing very well, does it seem like a rev limiter is hitting when you try to wind through the gears or does it just seem like it doesn't have enough power to move the quad as the gearing gets taller?
 
Im talking about the electrical connector that tells the cdi if the ebrake is on. If its still there and malfunctioning it will only let it rev to about 2000 rpms.
Didn't know there was one, sorry. Where would this be found. is this like a switch that needs to open or closed?
 
We adjusted the valves and still had considerable noise. I pulled the acct and pressed in with a screw driver and can tell its in al the way, and it did quiet a little.

As for the symptoms, it feels like its not reaching WOT, and almost like I'm dragging a sled, like its losing rapidly as the gear gets taller.

Originally this project started as one where I told him lets put a little money in the motor, if it dosn't go like it should than you can rethink the situation and think about resale. Now hes making it sound like hes in for the long haul, pistons, head whatever it takes. The owner says he joined the site so he should be around here somewhere.
 
What it feel like if you pop the rear tires off the ground so here is no resistance?
 
The thing is a turd. My money is on:
- bad rings(judging by the amount of blow by in the exhaust)
- Worn Valve springs
- Worn cam lobs
- Worn seals and guides
- Stretched chain
And that's to start, I'm also guessing the rod bearings are shot.

The valves were at .020 an.030 when I checked them. This thing needs no less then a top end build, and over bore. I know they have beem into the topend at least once, judging by the glob of RTV on the Jug.

The PB sensor is non-existent at this point. I can't even find the wires.

Good thing this quad is a Warrior, not many others could take such abuse and neglect. IMO, he paid $300 to much for it though.
 
i havnt called the owner yet, but last time we talked he was persistant about fixing what he has. I will still do I compression test to see. Surely a sloppy cam chain wouldn't cause the slug. It dosn't run like it jump time. I did find the reverse sensor wire was disconnected and that made it feel alittle better. Still smokes a bit, and smells very rich.I have just went thru the carb but feel good bout that. I say cut his losses and get his money out of it.
 
Ok so I went and bought a new compression tester and plug today, did a test I average 140psi when cranking. Bled it and bumped the starter and got 125psi, bled and repeated same result. then again cranked a couple times and this time held it. It held 140psi for aprox 15min. Put the new plug in, took it for a quick spin at WOT, parked it and that plug was as black as the ace of spades and wet. So, is it possible that this thing is just running way too rich? I mean if it was that rich that might explain the faint whitish smoke from the exhaust. I rebuilt the carb and after reading here went with a #150. I beleive they came with a 140?? I am at 888ft abv sea level, open air box and DG exhaust. I also wonder about the exhaust, the back of it looks like someone welded the cap on with bubblegum. If someone attempted to repack it and messed up, could too mauch back pressure cause these symptoms?
 
Sure.
Make sure the muffler core isn't crushed somehow.

How about the float height? Go back to stock main (obviously lean) while you're there just for the record. If it's running rich then, you know there's something else wrong.

Also, was there a chance someone drilled the marked 150 jet out? Stranger things have happened, especially if it's a used jet.
 
Whats the stock main? Thats what I was thinking. Float height is good, compared to the book. It was a little confusing where on the float they want you to measure from, but from what they show, no mater what I'm within spec. I am curious about whats inside the muffler. Its welded shut, but there is slip joints where it connects. I wonder if just for checking I could pull the can off and maybe put my stock z400 can on for temps?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top