Still smokes after new piston and rings

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Yeah, washing the bore in warm soap and water then wiping it with paper towel will remove the honing material stuck to the walls. Just wipe it down till there is no debris on the towel. Then immediately spray the bore down with WD40 or some other rust preventative lube. You'd be amazed how fast rust can form on the cylinder walls.
 
Well pat what do you think,,,, think maybe my tinny bit of riding just hasent set the rings in yet or somethings realy wrong like i did it wrong or the valves are leaking oil in the cylinder.. Biggest thing should i even be concerned??
 
Hard to say bud. If the bike were infront of me I could give a better opinion. You're valve seals would have to be near gone for oil to be leaking into the combustion chamber from the valves alone while it is runing. Some light smoke on start up when cold is commom for valve seals, but goes away once the seals and oil heat up. A cylinder leakdown test will yeild some results for you as to the sealing quality of the rings. She obviously has compression, because she starts and runs, and you aren't complaining about low power. You did say something about the oil rings (bottom 3 piece ring) having an overlapped gap, if that is indeed so, that can certainly give you the symptoms you are having.
 
Thats what my brother was telling me while i was trying to slip the piston in the drum, putting it back together,, ill see if i cant get my wife to help me tonight take a vid of it when first starting after afew days, well sense sunday!!
 
Welp cant get a vid tonight its to dark in my shedd,, it will have to wait till this weekend durning the day time, i just get home to damn late..
 
Ok so a show of hands,, should i pull it all back apart and check the lower rings thing,,, i have to eventauly split the two haves of the motor to replace the leaking gasket anyway but wasent going to do it till the end of next summer (try to get some ridding time first)...
 
That sucks guys, i was hoping to get to ride it this summer before i tear it back down cuz if i do it im going ahead and getting new head **** sense i dont no what that shop did or didnt do,, maybe i can save up and get a hotcam for the cam too,,,, im never gonna get to enjoy this bike,,
 
Thing thats worring me is the money,, ive been looking at the individaul peices and seems i could have like 300 in the valve **** depending on what i use,, Hay sense it sounds like youd no, when i pull the lower two main haves of the motor apart to replace the middle block gasket is everything going to just fall out or will i be able to like lay it on one side and pull the one side off clean off the old gasket put the new one on, put the two haves back together and tork it and go???
 
There is no gasket between the halves on these. I would not use just high temp RTV. Either use Yamabond or Permatex Ultra Black or the GM gray sealer used on the Duramax and late model engine stuff. Never use orange RTV on anything but exhaust gaskets.

Unless you have a bad leak or need to replace crank or trans, I would not split it.
 
Well i have to go inside the staitor area cuz i have oil seeping out of the pull start and i no i have to get a new neutral switch cuz it leaks,, i have WrightStuff gray rtv hear at work thats works as good as the GM and Ford factory stuff,,
 
Well i have to go inside the staitor area cuz i have oil seeping out of the pull start and i no i have to get a new neutral switch cuz it leaks,, i have WrightStuff gray rtv hear at work thats works as good as the GM and Ford factory stuff,,

If you have leaks at the stator cover and neutral switch, you won't have to split the engine cases. There is a gasket on the stator cover.
 
Sorry should have said this, it also has a leak running down the back of the motor, i wiped it and found the very center seem about half way up is leaking running down thats why i wanted to seperate it!!! do you think it would fix it buy draining the oil jacking up the rear and cleaning the seem and pack WrightStruff gasket sealer in the seem??
 
Some red high temp RTV is oil resistant. I've got a can here that is. I've used it a few times, so far so good, and seems to dry nicely. Haven't had a leak yet on the Cummins I used it on. But, I do prefer the Versachem Black RTv. Anyhow, this is what you do Phantom:

Take the engine out of the chassis for ease of access to everything. Take the top end apart and verify 2 things. 1, that there was indeed a problem with the oil rings (bottom 3 piece deal). 2, make sure there is no damage to the cylinder walls. If there is, it MAY need to be bored out again, if it is severe. If not, just a hone job will do it. Once you know the condition of the bore, and assuming it only needs a hone job, get new rings. Make sure to gap the rings properly.

While you have the top end off and the engine out of the frame, turn it upside down (nothing will fall out), clean off the cases off all oil and debris, then use UltraGray RTV on the seem for the center cases. Let it set up over night, then put her back together. Get a complete top end gasket kit, that way you will have valve seals. Take the head and valve seals to a reputable shop and have them do a valve job and install new seals.

ALthough porting the head is going to get the most out of the cam you choose, going with a S1HC will still perform well even with an unported head. It will give save you some money and still give you a power boost.
 
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Ok so the brand new piston and rings well just rings need to be replaced again then even thow ive only ridin it about 10 times around my house and prolly 3 or 4 times down my street,, about 4 yard lengths??? you think it hurt them that quick??
 
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