This warrior is gonna make me pull my hair out

[S.E.Warrior97-2001]

Okay i traded a 300 ex for this warrior :tup: BUT it wasnt running when i got it. It would always pull off but when it did would to say the least wasn't running good !!! I have checked the timing numerous time's It does not exactly alighn with the cam mark.It has to be either a notch adv or ret so its like the mark hits in between teeth so I dont think thats my problem. I changed the cdi with a reman. from rm stator and it actually just got worse. :argh: Okay so here is what it is doin.... When i crank the engine It cranks normal wile giving almost half throttle, if i let off the gas it cranks over a few times makes a big clunk then cranks more. we retarded the timing 3 nothces and it will hit every now and again if I mess with the choke (Closest that iv had iit to life without pulling it off) and the clunking dont happen as often.

The clunk sounds to me like it is actually fireing at the wrong time, also no matter how much gas i give it or pour in the engine the plug comes out dry. Keep in mind i have changed the cdi box what else could be my problems

 

[YAMAHAULER]

bad Stator,source coil or pick up coil or bad connections or grounds

 

[S.E.Warrior97-2001]

checked all the connection's and grounds, also have an older post on here labled starting problems explaining my stator test results... Not sure if i have the wrong kind of meter or what

 

[YAMAHAULER]

test the wires coming out of the stator side cover with an ohm meter

 

[YAMAHAULER]

here are what the resistance should be
On the 3 white wires coming out of the stator, they should all have 0.7~0.8 ohms resistance in all three combinations. That means imagine numbering each white wire either 1, 2, or 3. Check 1 to 2, 1 to 3 and 2 to 3. Also, check any one of the white wires to the laminated iron core of the stator. ANY continuity to ground indicates the stator has had an insulation breakdown and will have to be replaced.

To test the Source coil (for the ignition) connect your pocket tester from the white/green wire to the red wire. Resistance should be 270~330 ohms resistance.

To test the pickup coil, connect your tester from the blue to the yellow wire. Resistance should be 171~209 ohms resistance.

 

[S.E.Warrior97-2001]

Should my meter be set on 200 right? if so im getting bad readings on all the wires

 

[YAMAHAULER]

Should my meter be set on 200 right? if so im getting bad readings on all the wires

I can't remember off the top of my head what the meter should be set at but maybe someone that knows for sure will chime in

 

[S.E.Warrior97-2001]

Thanx for ur help !!

 

[duneracerweston]

If its sparking at all thats not the problem, sounds like you have a timing issue due to a worn out timing chain(hense why the marks wont line up) but if its not sparking sounds like a stator issue.

 

[YAMAHAULER]

my 01 was doing the erratic spark before and wouldn't start so I put a new complete stator in her and she runs great now
and the timing mark on the cam on my 02 was off by almost a quarter inch before I put the new cam chain in and she ran great like that so that's why I was saying stator cause he said the ohm meter was all over the place when testing the wires

 

[warriorgirl09]

Should my meter be set on 200 right? if so im getting bad readings on all the wires

rule of thumb on multi meters. IF your testing for say 270 - 330 ohms then setting it on 200 WILL NOT register it. you ALWAY go up to the next setting PAST the specs your looking for (I.E a 12v dc battery you set it on 20v dc)

 

[warriorgirl09]

If its sparking at all thats not the problem, sounds like you have a timing issue due to a worn out timing chain(hense why the marks wont line up) but if its not sparking sounds like a stator issue.

that is false information. it can still spark and be a bad source coil. the source coil charges the cdi box and if it's bad it doesn't charge it enough and it CAN still spark but it's not a hot enough spark to ignite the air/fuel. I've had a couple that it you can pull it off and start it but the electric start wouldn't start it due to a bad source coil.

 

[kevinsranger]

that is false information. it can still spark and be a bad source coil. the source coil charges the cdi box and if it's bad it doesn't charge it enough and it CAN still spark but it's not a hot enough spark to ignite the air/fuel. I've had a couple that it you can pull it off and start it but the electric start wouldn't start it due to a bad source coil.

this is true, when mine woudnt start, i had spark, just not bright spark, so it would start in "perfect storm" situations lol, replaced the stator and it starts first try everytime!!!

 

[1998yamahawarrior]

yep had the same thing happen on mine when I put it together. Would spark just not hot enough.

 

[warriorgirl09]

you can change just the source coil to save a few dollars too (i always just change the coil since the charging part rarely goes bad)

link to the source coil
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-YFM-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a6e5ebd2e&vxp=mtr

 

[S.E.Warrior97-2001]

Okay i have a bright blue spark and my spark plug always gomes out dry thats what makes me think its firing at the wrong time ( the big clunk)

Also the source coil is what makes the plug fire and the stator part is what does the charging ??

 

[warriorgirl09]

the stator charges the battery. the source coild charges the cdi box. and the pick-up coil tells the cdi box when the send the power to the ignition coil.
i just re read your first post. the clunking sounds like you may have internal engine problems... more specifically your piston hitting one of your valves. this could explain all your problems. if the piston hit the valve then the valve is bent. #1 if one of valves are bent then no matter how much gas you pour in the cylinder it's going to blow by the valve and out into the exhaust pipe and thats where your dry plug is coming from. #2 if the valve is bent it cant build enough compression to start and run. #3 a wore out timing chain could cause this AND if so changing the timing around is not helping and infact probably doing more damage. they put timing marks on these things for a reason and you shouldn't advance or retard the timing on small engines like these due to the already close tolerance they run at.

 

[duneracerweston]

change the timing chains then check compression and set the valves.

depending on the compression test will tell ya how bad things are in there if there's anything really bad.

 

[warriorgirl09]

^ ditto

 

[Gen1Pat]

Agreed^^^. Have to get that worn out chain replaced and go from there. Do that, and the rest of what weston said. If it shows low compression, do a cylinder leak down test(piston at TDC, and timing marks aligned). And, if there is air coming out of either the exhaust, intake, or both, then you have a bent valve(s). If NO air comes out of the intake or exhaust, remove the oil fill cap, or feel the end of the crankcase breather, for air. If there is a lot air coming out, the the rings and or cylinder are worn out.