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The vinyl wrap adds 3x to the value. Looks real nice! The hood piece had to be a PITA to wrap. Did you have to add any sort of adhesive to any of the plastics? I've never wrapped anything.

I'm sure a file will work fine. As long as you don't go through the weld to the inner sleeve on the frame completely. If you do, id suggest welding it again and machining it back to near flat/square again. This pivot on the frame will see a good deal of stress. Think of the stress it has when...

If it helps, FWIW, I still have to jiggle and force the lever on mine. It seems to help to hold it forward as I let off the clutch. It will align and engage as I let off the clutch.

It may have a small strength affect, as the bolt won't stay tight over time, but is probably fine. The needle bearings don't need any torque to function. If you can't get the surface flat again, maybe use an aluminum washer(or even brass). A softer material should form to the uneven surface a...

The wiring harness may be the issue. It is over 30 years old. Easy things to check are the keyed switch, the flip switch, and the starter/power relay. I had many relays fail on my '87. The cheap replacements are hit-or-miss. The starter/power relay was my biggest issue before I found other...

It could. If you take the plug out and ground it against the motor, you can crank the starter and test for spark strength. It should be bright and consistent.

I hate to say it, but there may be frayed or broken wires in the harness. If this started when you removed the plastics, its likely an issue. It takes a little time, but ohm test as many wires as you can from end to end(ignition related). You might try to wiggle or twist the harness while you...

Keep the original carb if it still has it. Clean and rebuild the original one. The replacements are kind of a crapshoot. Cheap seal kits are okay, but at least use genuine Mikuni jets. Your piston and head show a ton of detonation damage. Usually from running lean or too much quench clearance...

I will say my measurements were rough with a cheap digital caliper(not 100% machinist measurement). It was mostly to give a reference of the size difference. A sway bar bushing could be used. It is likely the hardest material you will find is a polyurethane bushing(I think 80-95 shore is common)...

The bolt holes on the 2 piece are further inward. And the steering stem is a different size. Since I have a bunch of part out yfm80 quads(original part number matches), I took a look and measured them. If your shaft measures 22mm in diameter, this will be correct. Yours is 22mm shaft, 65mm bolt...

I seen your other post. I'd try the drw link or something to soften the rear suspension and put better shocks on the front first. The stock front shocks are stiff and transfer a lot of energy to the rider. I put an extended swingarm on the back of mine that softened it up a ton(I like it) and...

I have original seats from both and have rode both. The Warrior seat is softer and thicker foam. The Raptor seat is denser and thinner. I have back issues with damaged disc, too. I actually had a more comfortable ride on the Raptor 350 vs the Warrior as the seating position is at a less squat...

There are cheaper used ones on ebay for around $200. Always stay with OEM carbs. Go through a parts supplier like partzilla.com or rockymountainatv.com for oem parts. All Balls Racing, Moose, and others are "okay" kits for seals, but OEM jets could be needed. If you get an OEM carb, with...

I would recommend a crankshaft puller/installer. The cases can just separate, but if they don't, you can distort/bend the crankshaft beating them apart. Many have gotten away with prying and hammering, but doesn't mean it is the right way. This one puller, or a cheap knock-off, will work. Try...

Progress is slow. I might have it out running over the weekend if the yard dries up some. Even with some of the gas in the tank being old, it still fires right up. Niche tie-rod ends for a YZF450 fit like factory and have alot of clearance. Tie rods are for a Suzuki King Quad and fit perfect...

X2 on the YFZ throttle. My concoction wouldn't open it all the way. The YFZ450 throttle has enough throw to be a damn near perfect fit. I can adjust it to have just a little slop when released to make sure it fully closes and it goes WOT without putting stress on the cable.

Easily overlooked is the fuel petcock. It has fine screens inside the fuel tank. If it's original, they could be plugged up, corroded, and/or broken. If you pull the hose off the carb and turn the fuel valve on, does fuel flow steady out the hose? You can switch back and forth to the reserve and...

Parts are here for the head. Factory piston pin, good used rockers, Hot Cams camshaft, bearings, and cam chain. I'll need to measure piston to deck before I decide on the head gasket. I keep getting tied up with something and need to start painting the head before I start putting it together...

I don't see the vent tubes. You'll want to install them to make sure dirt and dust doesn't get in where you don't want it. I used the exact same Uni filter for test and tuning. Made it way easier to loosen and tilt the carb for jet changes. You have to rip it hard a bit, shut off before letting...

Glad you could save it so easily. Where are you thinking of putting the wideband?