My little rebuild (finally)

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kyler said:
i havent seen any of the fullflight yet, but i just got the wicked products +3s great product powdercoated any color for right at 425 shipped took about a week to get here and they even had to make them!!... best aftermarket ones i have seen in a while!!...STAY AWAY FROM BURGARD! THEY ARE JUNK AND DONT FIT... AND IT TOOK THEM 2 MONTHS TO GET THE SET TO ME!!!

thanks for the tip Kyler actually I was just looking at the wicked arms the other day and considering them they do look like a nice product. I will check out some of the options and make a choice pretty soon, I want to go riding! so this little rebuild cant take forever right now but what I plan on doing is adding little bits here and there threwout the summer! Hey you guys what do you think about this kit here : http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=250396879965

I would just resell this small overbore sleeve/piston I have and do this kit here, I found a shop that does this type of boring for a decent rate and its a motor rebuild shop so they have a bit of experience. Decent looking kit here? (Greg you might have a good opinion since your quad is a big cc upgrade)
 
Actually, my warrior wasn't a big cc build, I was running a small overbore with a Wiseco 10.25:1 piston. I didn't go big bore or stroker for reliability reasons. I put my warrior through too much abuse and didn't want to compromise any reliability for more power. By nature, a big bore/stroker kit is going to generate a lot more heat, and because of thinner cylinder walls it'll be less efficient at getting rid of that heat at the same time. I put my warrior through a lot of harsh conditions like slow rock crawling and deep mud bogging, and was worried that the extra heat would give me trouble.

Most that have the big bore kits don't ever complain about this, but I just didn't want to take the chance of spending that much money and not liking it. The average rider won't ever put their quad through what I did to my warrior, I really beat the hell out of the poor thing on a regular basis. That's why I kept a lot of the engine stock. I had the head ported pretty good, and for a while I had a stage 2 hotcam but didn't like the way it ran and I was floating the valves way too much when I was on the MX track which also made me worry about the reliability of it. I went back to stock and didn't notice a huge loss and it ran smoother at the low rpm's. I think I was putting out around 30 hp with just the piston, port work, edelbrock carb, exhaust and intake. I could run circles around 400ex's and hold even with a z400 in a drag and smoke 'em on the trails because of the suspension work I had put into it.

I didn't mind having less power, all that meant was I had to be a better rider than the guy next to me. I know I was a better rider when I had my warrior, with all the power that my raptor has i'm starting to get lazy. I was riding the warrior again a few weeks ago and couldn't beleive I used to give 450's a good run with it in the trails and on the track.

If I was going to do a big bore or stroker, the hot rods kit would have been my choice. It doesn't have a big reduction in cylinder wall thickness compared to a big one like the 430's and 446's, and costs less for parts and less to install.
 
Damn Greg I must have thougt your quad was another I seen on here with one of the big bore kits, none the less you had the same wiseco piston that I am trying to put in right now. I think I will throw it in and see how it does, I do alot of fast trail riding (not much slow climbing or tight twisty trails around here, more like old train track trails threw the woods which are alot of fun) so extra power is welcomed although I dont want issues that concerned you either. I think your right about this hotrod kit being a good one, its relatively cheaper then some, a bit smaller on the cc displacement and it is a complete get up and go as long as someone does the machine work. The cool thing now is I coulod putt in this sleeve/wiseco piston and still have my oem bored sleeve that I could send in if I decide to go with this bigger bore after = no down time except when I actually install the kit! Today I will be installing the piston/sleeve for the wiseco 10:25:1 .50 over and getting the head back on hopefully. Im going to try and adjust the preload on the rear shock, any ideea if I have to have a certain yamaha tool to do so or is there another way to adjust the little flange/ring type thing on there? Im also going to try and get that exhaust cleaned up today and possibly take it for as little ride although it will need an oil change for safety after this install correct? Ill take some pics lol ;)
 
O greg I must have mistakened your ride for someone else's or misread your motor work probally the 2nd. Anyways I got the head of and the stock sleeve off, now just the circlips on the oem piston how can I get those damn clips off? The piston head also looks burnt to **** if I ever saw such a thing lol. Also I always had this small bit of sweat by the bottom of the cylinder head and now I know why, the douche that put this together or played with it barely had a gasket in there all that was there was a few bits and pieces from the gasket unless it disolved or something so I can finally fix that leak up still waiting for my gaskets though so looks like im stuck here. I might just call around and see how much it would cost to bore the .50 over sleeve I have to a size that would fit the 397cc stroker kit and then just go that way because if I throw in the 10:25:1 .50 over piston and later not satisfied and want to change I need to tear the motor down again and I dont think Im going to have the time/space/money to do it again later on although if I just use this .50 over 10:25:1 wiseco I can save myself 500 bucks plus the machine shop labour soo....! If I install the 397 cc stroker then I will do the aftermarket mod of the oil cooler as well to help out. Mod list if I go that route (temp. this can change threw out the summer)
-397cc hotrod 10:25:1 stroker kit
-big bear oil cooler mod
-shifter mod to solid shifter 1 pc.
-polished header/supertrapp exhaust
-ff +2 arms and mabey works shocks
-play with the oem shock on the rear for now
-pro taper handle bar and new grips
;D
Heres a few pics now
PictureMay09158.jpg

PictureMay09162.jpg

PictureMay09160.jpg


for anyone interested this is what a race series supertrapp ids2 sounds like and this is my warrior obviously
[flash=350,287:eek:4nsq4nu]http://www.youtube.com/v/nacpwnrvYBc&hl=en&fs=1[/flash:eek:4nsq4nu]
 
^ and thought my stock piston had some build up....yeash! what do the bottom of your valves look like? you were probably thinking of Dave76. Graig needs to have his quad info put in the elite section.
 
For adjusting the preload on the shock, yamaha does have a specific spanner wrench to use, but there are plenty of other ways to go about adjusting it. I've done it several ways. The first step, regardless of how you do it, is to get the weight off the spring. I used a ratchet strap on the grab bar and around a joist in the garage to jack it up some and get the suspension unloaded.

The hardest part will be initially getting those adjusting rings broken loose. The best method i've found was a long flat blade screwdriver or similar tool up against one of the notches aimed in the direction you want to turn the ring, and then beat on the screwdriver with a hammer. This works similar to an impact wrench to break it loose.

From there you have a choice:
- special yamaha tool (i know it exists but i've never seen one)
- big channel lock pliers
- you can continue using the screwdriver and hammer method (slow, but it works)
- some random generic spanner wrench

I had always just done all the work with the screwdriver and hammer, it's slow but it works and it's probably easier than trying to figure out how to fit the other tools in there with limited space. When I adjusted the preload on my raptor and dual sport I had more tools to work with, and found a spanner wrench for fire department connection caps that worked pretty well (i'm a fire safety inspector, i have a bunch of strange tools at my disposal along with all the regular ones).
 
deadlastracing said:
Greg needs to have his quad info put in the elite section.

I don't own it anymore so I can't really have it in the elite section, that's why it's in the gone but not forgotten section with the other past elite quads.
 
Cool Job Greg, Dead the bottom of my valves are about the same color just not as bad as the piston head. Ive decided I will just throw in this high comp piston for now, save myself some $$ is always good and later if I want I will do the big bore or just sell the warrior and find a bigger cc quad
 
Look nice, mine are $130 +s/h cheaper as of now and that item has a few hours left of bidding. ;D



link says listing been removed.......ebay stuff; Just post the Item number (upper right hand side of the item header bar) instead of the links because the links eventually expire anyways.
 
DEAD..... your letting those works go for 130+ shipping? Let me know how to pay you and total price I will take them today/buy them today. I will need to send them to be regassed probally though as Im around 200lbs.
 
NO.....I still stickin to my $200 price tag.....read my post again. I said mine are "$130+s/h CHEAPER" then the ones you posted, those are at $330.

I'm selling the shocks so I can get my nerfs.
 
haha well dead did you get my pm offer? And I was just playing with ya above ;P Check my p,m offer and let me know threw pm
 
anybody know much about those czr exhaust's on ebay? They have 100% rating and alot of the buyers were buying them for the warrior? Ive never really seen them around a whole lot but they APPEAR decent (does not imply I think they are good lol :)
 
Im now considering flipping my front wheels instead of the wide arms, while the wide arms are nice and mabey the best way to do it, If I buy some Gorilla flushmount valves and mabey just grab some beefier tie rods that probally will do the trick and throw on some aftermarket shocks (for now anyways I am on a budget lol)
 
^ that will work.....in theory. Its a good substitution to throwin cash at a-arms.
 
megafandrew said:
anybody know much about those czr exhaust's on ebay? They have 100% rating and alot of the buyers were buying them for the warrior? Ive never really seen them around a whole lot but they APPEAR decent (does not imply I think they are good lol :)

I saw those, and was considering them for my suzuki dr350. The general consensus on maximumsuzuki.com by anybody that had used them or had any experience with them was that they are very cheaply made and not worth the money. Supposedly the materials are pretty thin and light duty, so the welds can't be made real strong and they tend to break apart much quicker than they should, mostly where the midpipe joins the can. Add that to the fact that they are not spark arrested, are loud (100+ db, which is just obnoxiously loud on a warrior), and are not rebuildable. I have very limited options with my dr350 and still steered away from the czr, and instead went with a used brand-name part. I woud recommend doing the same if you don't want to spend the $200+ on a good quality new aftermarket one. There are a hundred better ways to get your money's worth out there with something as easy to find parts for as the warrior.
 
megafandrew said:
Im now considering flipping my front wheels instead of the wide arms, while the wide arms are nice and mabey the best way to do it, If I buy some Gorilla flushmount valves and mabey just grab some beefier tie rods that probally will do the trick and throw on some aftermarket shocks (for now anyways I am on a budget lol)

I did this, similar anyways. Having to take your wheels off to adjust air pressure sucks, I put the original valve stems in backwards just to fill the holes, and drilled new holes and mounted new stems on the other side of the wheels where they would be just like it was stock. You will need some good 12mm tie rods and ends if you ride in rough terrain, the stock ones bust way too easily with the extra leverage the offset will put on everything.

It depends on how you ride, but the extra width using this method comes at a cost. That bump steer will wear you down and beat the hell out of you if you ride in rough terrain. Your steering effort will also be harder, and it seemed like it cut down on my turning radius for some reason. And of course the leverage softens up the front end a lot. If you do get aftermarket shocks, obviously you'll want to get them set up for +2 or +3 aftermarket a-arms, whatever your final goal will be.

I do not strongly recommend works shocks. They are better than stock for sure, but I felt that mine were set up way too soft. The ride height in the front was too low and the body roll in the corners was actually worse than stock for me. I would rather spend $500 and get bottom line elkas or TCS/Race Tech shocks. Not a lot more money for a shock that should perform much better. Maybe I just got a set that was set up by a newbie or something, but one of mine also started leaking at the seal in less than a year and needed to be rebuilt. At that point I was so thoroughly disgusted with my suspension setup and all the money it was costing me that I just sold the damn thing and bought the 700.
 
haha I could see why after so much messing around and spent $$ why you switched to the 700. Unfortunately I have a feeling I might not have the space/time for a quad in the next couple years so Im not wanting to buy a new one, and will hold on to this one as long I can. Thus my reason for not wanting to spend a ton of money on it, but I would part the whole thing when done with it, and return it to stock to sell. Anyways guy's Im just waiting on parts to arrive so thats why no updates. I think Im going to just order a new hmf pipe for my warrior and clean-up/sell the supertrapp on here or ebay I would like to try something different. I also think im going to just order a set of +2 a-arms and I already bought Dead's works which are in awsome shape by the way (Dead lol) so thanks for those. Im just going to stiffen the rear shock unless I see a sweet deal on an aftermarket one. I have a new protaper bar/pad coming, new odi ruffian lock-on grips and a gasket kit lol. Guys again how do I get the circlips off to remove that damn old piston? Also I was wondering what I should do with the front fenders? Keep them stock, cut them or take them off completely? I dont really ride in mud (its dry and dusty where I ride) so I dont neeed to worry about mud splashing in my goggles lol. if you have any pics post them so I can get an idea.
 
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