My little rebuild (finally)

[warrior111]

For the piston circlips, you should be able to get a set of small needle nose pliers in the groove ( looks like a half circle ) where the clip is. then you just grab the clip, and pull it out by putting pressure down and kinda twisting it a bit ( if you know what i mean)
And for the fenders, IMO i would at least take the stock mudflap off. ( the WHOLE thing, ) or, another nice way to cut them is where they flip up ( right on the edge before they go flat on the top) But everyone got different opinions.

 

[warrior111]

Not sure if you will be able to understand this, lol.

 

[megafandrew]

Ok thanks warrior111 that diagram helped out. I managed to get the circlips off without damaging them. I can re-use these circlips right?? Anyways some pics of the old black (lol) piston and valves are pretty black too as you see. What should I do about the valves?? Pics.

These look pretty black what can I do about it, and how did the previous owner allow them to get like this? The motor ran fine before and had plenty of kick, no smoking.

 

[megafandrew]

;D

 

[91warrior]

no you should not re-use the circlips. if your getting a new piston, it should come with the circlips, pin, and rings for the piston.

as for the black, that is looks pretty normal. the piston and head do look blacker than usual, maybe just more carbon build up, but not to bad. maybe it was running just a little on the rich side to cause that.

 

[jasonp]

Ok thanks warrior111 that diagram helped out. I managed to get the circlips off without damaging them. I can re-use these circlips right?? Anyways some pics of the old black (lol) piston and valves are pretty black too as you see. What should I do about the valves?? Pics.]

You can re-use them but I would recomend if anything to run a hone up and down the cylinder and get some new rings and clips. You can also go with a Wiesco hi-compression piston standard bore with no ill effects if you didn't want to bore the engine sleeve out. You can also get the factory gaskets or go with a Cometic EST set for a little more compression and to get the deck height down were it needs to be. Just tell them you want the thinnest base and headgasket they make in EST for your make model and year of your warrior also need to know the bore size.

A low compression engine like this that looks pretty normal with a bunch of hours on it.
I would guess that the air filter is really dirty maybe burns just a touch of oil as it looks like compression is getting by the top to rings telling me the bore (hone) is a little worn and the rings are not seating as well. Pretty normal stuff though.
It is up to you if you want a 3 angle valve job done and then have them replace the seals and guides if bad. I would recomend it if you have the head already off there.

 

[megafandrew]

thanks for all that info Jasonp, I actually removed the stock cylinder sleeve/piston, I have a totally new cylinder sleeve that was bored over .50 and honed and a new higher compression piston so that is taken care of, the original sleeve will not be going back in I didn't however get any circlips with my piston as it was slightly used from a friend but is in excellent shape, let me get some pictures and Ill post them up. Can I order circlips from somehwere? (just the circlip?) Thanks 91warrior also for the advice on the motor. Again the old worn/burnt cylinder sleeve will not be going back in I have another one with a honed/bored out job on it already that will replace the sleeve and piston with something slightly bigger. I believe the new comp. will be 10:25:1 I think

 

[megafandrew]

Sorry for double post just went and grabbed some pics. So it appears the new piston does have CIRCLIPS but they are already inserted in the circlip holding area, can I just remove them carefully and use them?? They look brand new. Also the yellow on top of the piston was just some paint marker with a code written there I will clean that. This is some pics of the like new high comp. Wesico piston, and the new cylinder sleeve/jug bored .50 over and honed this cylinder sleeve is straight and smooth I took some measurements with my inside mic when I bought it (I used to be in my apprenticeship for machinist lol) anyways also a couple pics of the rear shock and its progress on preload adjustment lol.

Greg(yamarider) the flathead screwdriver method works great for adjusting lol.

 

[jasonp]

Sorry for double post just went and grabbed some pics. So it appears the new piston does have CIRCLIPS but they are already inserted in the circlip holding area, can I just remove them carefully and use them?? They look brand new. Also the yellow on top of the piston was just some paint marker with a code written there I will clean that. This is some pics of the like new high comp. Wesico piston, and the new cylinder sleeve/jug bored .50 over and honed this cylinder sleeve is straight and smooth I took some measurements with my inside mic when I bought it (I used to be in my apprenticeship for machinist lol) anyways also a couple pics of the rear shock and its progress on preload adjustment lol.

g]

Yeah you can re-use the c clips.
The piston will be fine. Just put some light lube on the cylinder before going together and make sure to time the rings and install the piston the correct direction.
The cylinder looks slightly used but should be ok. If needed you can ball hole the cylinder out again just to make sure the rings get seated back in. In fact I think I would do that.
Make sure the piston and cylinder are the correct piston to cylinder wall clearance and install that piston and let her have it!!
I think I would try and run with out a base gasket a just use some silicone to get your deck height lower but that is totally up to you. It will run better after this anyway.

 

[megafandrew]

Hey Jason thanks for the info again, how do I time the rings or what exactly is that? Mabey I will try to run without the gasket, will that increase compression a little or no? What would be if any the advantage? Also should I go with the hmf exhaust? I am getting excited/impatient to finish this little rebuild so I can get out and rip the weather has been beautiful here the last few weeks and the dirt is looking good ;D Im debating if I should order those +2 arms tommorow, I want them because with the yfz offset rear wheels the back is about 2 inches wider on each compared to the front, I want to even it out plus I ride alot of fast/wide open trails with long curves/corners that can be followed threw with alot of speed if stable enough. I had a new oem grab bar but lost it since I ordered it in winter lol Im not sure where I have placed the damn thing!

 

[jasonp]

Hey Jason thanks for the info again, how do I time the rings or what exactly is that? Mabey I will try to run without the gasket, will that increase compression a little or no? What would be if any the advantage? Also should I go with the hmf exhaust? I am getting excited/impatient to finish this little rebuild so I can get out and rip the weather has been beautiful here the last few weeks and the dirt is looking good ;D Im debating if I should order those +2 arms tommorow, I want them because with the yfz offset rear wheels the back is about 2 inches wider on each compared to the front, I want to even it out plus I ride alot of fast/wide open trails with long curves/corners that can be followed threw with alot of speed if stable enough. I had a new oem grab bar but lost it since I ordered it in winter lol Im not sure where I have placed the damn thing!

Just the base gasket you can run with out. Use Hi-temp silicone. The 450 to 500 F stuff. That will seal good. Only if you want though. This will raise compression and give you more torque and response. Basically helps all around to have more power and torque.
HMF exhaust is good.

 

[warrior111]

i just noticed, your base is still in your frame? On my warrior the long cyclender/head bolts hit the frame, did you have to loosen the motor and turn it to get thies bolts out?

 

[megafandrew]

Hey Jason thanks for the info again, how do I time the rings or what exactly is that? Mabey I will try to run without the gasket, will that increase compression a little or no? What would be if any the advantage? Also should I go with the hmf exhaust? I am getting excited/impatient to finish this little rebuild so I can get out and rip the weather has been beautiful here the last few weeks and the dirt is looking good ;D Im debating if I should order those +2 arms tommorow, I want them because with the yfz offset rear wheels the back is about 2 inches wider on each compared to the front, I want to even it out plus I ride alot of fast/wide open trails with long curves/corners that can be followed threw with alot of speed if stable enough. I had a new oem grab bar but lost it since I ordered it in winter lol Im not sure where I have placed the damn thing!

Just the base gasket you can run with out. Use Hi-temp silicone. The 450 to 500 F stuff. That will seal good. Only if you want though. This will raise compression and give you more torque and response. Basically helps all around to have more power and torque.
HMF exhaust is good.

A little higher compression sounds good I will do this then, where can I pick up some of that high temp. silcone sealent? Also timing the rings you mentioned? What would you do in my case after seeing a few pics of my supertrapp ids2 race pipe would you bother spending $$ on a new pipe or just use the supertrapp, I highly doubt the hmf will give any more performance then this supertrapp? warrior I did just loosen the headbolts, and the engine mount on the top of the frame. After loosening the top part you can actually just wiggle it a bit to slide the bolts out, and you can remove the top engine mount brace completely so the head can pull right out of there, when putting it back together Ill show you what I did and get a pic of it! Any exhaust for sale on the forum? lol ;P

 

[jasonp]

Just the base gasket you can run with out. Use Hi-temp silicone. The 450 to 500 F stuff. That will seal good. Only if you want though. This will raise compression and give you more torque and response. Basically helps all around to have more power and torque.
HMF exhaust is good.

A little higher compression sounds good I will do this then, where can I pick up some of that high temp. silcone sealent? Also timing the rings you mentioned? What would you do in my case after seeing a few pics of my supertrapp ids2 race pipe would you bother spending $$ on a new pipe or just use the supertrapp, I highly doubt the hmf will give any more performance then this supertrapp? warrior I did just loosen the headbolts, and the engine mount on the top of the frame. After loosening the top part you can actually just wiggle it a bit to slide the bolts out, and you can remove the top engine mount brace completely so the head can pull right out of there, when putting it back together Ill show you what I did and get a pic of it! Any exhaust for sale on the forum? lol ;P

Any auto parts store should have a good hi temp sealant. The higher the better.
All the rings should be 120 degrees appart from each other (the ends gaps). You can look this up on the internet as well for more info if needed. Also make sure they are on correct way with the dot up. I believe the top two rings to be different so watch that as well.
Put all of the rings in the bore just to make sure they all have the correct end gap.
The supertrapp is actually a pretty good pipe because you can actually tune the exhaust to better suit your riding. You can also open it up and have a full race pipe. I wouldn't sell it.
Same way I rebuilt my engine!

 

[megafandrew]

A little higher compression sounds good I will do this then, where can I pick up some of that high temp. silcone sealent? Also timing the rings you mentioned? What would you do in my case after seeing a few pics of my supertrapp ids2 race pipe would you bother spending $$ on a new pipe or just use the supertrapp, I highly doubt the hmf will give any more performance then this supertrapp? warrior I did just loosen the headbolts, and the engine mount on the top of the frame. After loosening the top part you can actually just wiggle it a bit to slide the bolts out, and you can remove the top engine mount brace completely so the head can pull right out of there, when putting it back together Ill show you what I did and get a pic of it! Any exhaust for sale on the forum? lol ;P

Any auto parts store should have a good hi temp sealant. The higher the better.
All the rings should be 120 degrees appart from each other (the ends gaps). You can look this up on the internet as well for more info if needed. Also make sure they are on correct way with the dot up. I believe the top two rings to be different so watch that as well.
Put all of the rings in the bore just to make sure they all have the correct end gap.
The supertrapp is actually a pretty good pipe because you can actually tune the exhaust to better suit your riding. You can also open it up and have a full race pipe. I wouldn't sell it.
Same way I rebuilt my engine!

Very cool you built your engine the same way I think with the supertrapp you are right you can tune with disc, or to have ultimate free flowing exhaust and remove all legal (for trail) spark arresting and baffling you can run the open core of the pipe with no discs inside and man does it get loud also. I will check for that sealent tommorow, I was told by Royal Distributors that my parts should be here on Friday (excellent but I work starting Wednesday to next Tuesday anyways so no big rush) I cant wait for my new lock on grips and pro-taper bar/pad combo! I will keep the exhaust just clean it up a bit. What front sprocket do recommend I run, last year I ordered a brand new ek chain I believe and JRC sprockets or something like that (good quality stuff anywho) the only problem was that this was before I stage 2 dyno jetted my carb, put on the supertrapp and got the ProFlow K&N filter system, also I put on those 20" razr2's in the back, before this rebuild I was shifting constantly and did not have enough topend or time in between shifts. Should I go with a 14 or 15 tooth front sprocket? Like I said before also, I ride wide/open fast trails

 

[DeadLastRacing]

Engine back together now? Got any pics pf your project thus far? Look into getting a rear banshee shock.

 

[megafandrew]

Engine back together now? Got any pics pf your project thus far? Look into getting a rear banshee shock.

Hey Dead engine is not back together yet, I was going to go grab the sealent but lucky me I woke up this morning with stomache virus or something (no vomiting tho so thats good) anyways I will have to wait now until I am done working my next shift (suppose to start tommorow until next Tuesda the 2nd? I highly doubt I will be going into work tommorow though) and Ill have it thrown together plus my new parts on her (bar, grips, works shocks, a-arms,) Ive been thinking of getting some new plastic also from a guy on ebay its black nice condition fenders that might look good. What sprocket do you guys recommend for my previous post setup (20 tires, mild engine work, and before I was shifting all the time) anyways when i rebuild I will get a ton of pictures and then pressure wash her and take a nice finisged photo, Ill also try to get a video ;D

 

[DeadLastRacing]

What A-Arms you end up going with?

 

[megafandrew]

Well I found a cheaper pair of Armadillo +2 arms, are they any good? I havent bought them just yet!

 

[warrior111]

If you have a die grinder,(dremmel tool) you could grind the restrictive weld out of the inside of your head pipe, then polish it. I couldnt tell what it did to mine, because i had other mods go into my motor at the same time, but it should make a decent difference.