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Oh I thought that was the 350. But, I had a sneaky suspission that was the 307. Are you going to use a serp belt syst? I'm going to on mine. Less drag, and no maint.
 
I've thought about the gear drive as well. But there is nothing like a good ole double roller timing chain. That will outlast the freakin engine. Lol. They also make a timing belt set up for em. But I HATE timing belts. Have to replace too many on customer cars as it is. Some are pretty easy (Hyundai/Kia), but others (Toyota, Chrystler) suck balls!
 
the older yotas like the 80's and VERY earlt 90's aint to bad but the newer ones.. omg. i put head gaskets on my brothers 3.0 pickup and that thing was a bitch to time!
 
Oh 3.0 yotas are a bitch. Especially the 4 runner and some pickups. The newer 3.0 is not bad to do at all. The worst part about them in the Odyssey is that the bank 2 side is parially under the wiper cowl. You are "supposed" to remove the cowl, but you can do it without that hassle. Other than that they are super easy. Then there are the Hondas. Some are easy, others suck ass. Then you get the ones with balancer belt. Nissan vg30 and vg33 are easy, too. So is the old Isuzu 3.2. Oh, missed out on that 400 sbc, but am going to prob get the double humps he has. Ported, 58cc chambers, 2.02/1.6, Isky valve train, bronze guides, $400! He has a bunch of other **** I want to look at too.
 
i hate ANY front wheel drives... why i dont own any lol. none of the double humps were 58cc chambers... if they got em that small the had quite abit decked off them... i'd be scared of them if i was you
 
Caddy NorthStar engines Ive decided are the biggest pain in my rear. Just did one and hopefully my last. Not to mention one of the poorest designed engines in my eyes.
 
warriorgirl09 said:
i hate ANY front wheel drives... why i dont own any lol. none of the double humps were 58cc chambers... if they got em that small the had quite abit decked off them... i'd be scared of them if i was you
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I know... They were all 64cc if I remember right. That's why I want to see them in person, and see what else he has. My dad spoke to him, because he went to the shop today and the guy left a message on the machine. My dad's brain is FRIED (CRS, can't remember ****), too many drugs in his youth. He could be wrong, but who knows. Going to give him a call tomorrow. If they are worth it I'll get em. If not, I've probably found the head I'm going to use. I think the only heads they made that small were the 041X power pack heads, IF I remember correctly. They could even be a set of them for all I know.

1998yamahawarrior said:
Caddy NorthStar engines Ive decided are the biggest pain in my rear. Just did one and hopefully my last. Not to mention one of the poorest designed engines in my eyes.
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Most all Caddy's suck! I have an 89 Fleetwood apart on my lift right now. Customer supplied his own parts, so right off the get, you know this is going to be a problem child. Wanted the timing chain and water pump replaced. Other than having to remove the necessaries to get to the timing cover, it ain't that bad. It's just a 307 Olds engine. Get everything cleaned, timing chain and gears installed, all ready for reassembly, open the timing cover gasket set, and what is not in there? A new ******* cam button! The old one was in 3 pieces, so I had to order one and wait 4 days for the damn thing to show up! Other than that it is a walk in the park. But, if you really want to know what is an absloute nightmare to work on... Volkswagon! Or any European car! Ford has some pretty fucked up designs, too. And they use EVERY single fastiner size known to man to put their **** together. Just to pull a trans you need: 5.5, 8, maybe 10, deff 11, 15, 17, 18, 19, and 21mm wrenches/sockets to pull it. Oh, and 14mm for the torque converter nuts. And that's another thing... torque converter nuts. That is just plain stupid! And what's even more stupid, is that the aftermarket doesn't make the new converters with drilled and taped holes, and supply it with new bolts and do it the right way. Meanwhile, the aftermarket will offer a replacement inner tie rod, with a 13mm rod (stock is 12mm) and a 21mm jamb nut (stock is 19mm), or some combo of the 2. What a pain in the ass!
 
some of the vortec heads are 58cc heads. IMO 64cc is the best size. MOST flat tops come out to a 10:1 CR with em. I'm going to buy a set of dart iron eagle heads to go on the 302... i had a set a few years back and my dad assed around and sold them while i was away on vacation. 64cc chambers, angle plugs, sodium filled swirl polished stainless steel valve, dual valve springs good to .700 lift... damn things cost $900 a head
 
Those are the heads that I'm looking at. Them or dart's aluminum heads with either the 180 or 200cc runners. Bronze guides and everything. Sweet heads for the price... I agree with the 64cc chambers. That is a great middle of the road number for CR, keeps it pump gas and make great power. I think the Vortec heads that are 58cc are the perfomance heads that GMPP offers.
 
i LOVE dart products. never been a fan of aluminum heads on a cast block. i like cast heads on a cast block and aluminum on aluminum
 
Yeah I've never heard anything bad about their products either. And they are some of the best priced. I don't know just yet if I'm going with iron or aluminum. I''ve never had probs with, and am a fan of, iron heads. So they are heavier, big deal. It's not like I'm making this thing a corvette and drifting on banked turns, lol. Although that would be sweet!
 
i have 2 problems with aluminum heads. #1 they expand and contract at a different rate than the cast iron block (cant be good for head gaskets) and #2 threads are so much easier to pull out AND after a steel screw has been in aluminum for awhile it's almost impossible to get out w/o bringing the threads with it
 
Agreed on the 2nd parts of your reasons. But, most all new vehicles use aluminum heads with iron blocks. However, metelergy has improved over the years, as have gaskets. My biggest grip is the stupid stretch bolts that all of them have. Makes me wonder if I'd need them on a 40 year old block...
 
I know that stockers don't. Didn't know if you needed stretch bolts for aluminum heads. I think aluminum heads work well with iron blocks. It's when its the other way around that it absolutely sucks. Like the vega. Good concept, poor execution. Beacause of the wieght of the iron head pushing down on the aluminum block, they'd warp and leak like a sive. But, put iron sleeves in the block and prob solved, and they ran forever.
 
started doing alil body work today... starting with the bed (easiest lol) i'll post pics later... if i remember to take some lol
 
welp i was looking at the chevy the other day and said **** it! the bed is now off and disassembled to strip and fix and prime. the front clip will bee off in the next few days and the cab will be next. the plan now is to completely strip the frame and have it and the trailing arms and axle housing powder coated. fix the body and paint it all and have a damn nice truck and then later on after a save my money up alil but a full hotchkis performance handling package http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HSS-80390/ and lower it 1-2 (1 inch up front and 2 inches in the back) and do disc brakes and some 17's :)
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gonna have to fab up some new kick panels
 
dON'T look too bad. Have you tried classicparts.com? They used to be chevy duty, they have EVERTHING for these trucks at good prices. That chassis looks as good as yours!
 
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