the new ride ;)

Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum

Help Support Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
driver side rear of the chassis about a foot and a half is bent down about 1/2 an inch but thats a easy fix with the backhoe. i've looked EVERYWHERE lol obsolete chevy seems to have the best selection of stuff and for the stuff the summit has i'll just make a trip to atlanta on one of my visits back to GA and pick up what i need and save on shipping
 
Hard to even see that in the pic. But I saw it looking really hard. The chassis on my 49 looks pretty solid. But, I haven't remove the bed or cab yet.
 
Thanks. I've done quite abut in my younger years (helped my dad restore 2 nova's a 69 and a 71) hardest thing I have to do is weld in rockers and fab the kick panels
 
You miging or tiging? I'm hoping to have a new mig before I do any panel replacing on my 49. Want to get a millermatic 252 or similar miller. My current clarke is bitch to tune for certain metals. Does great for exhaust work but it is not fine tunable at all.
 
i gotta big ass miller stick welder for heavy stuff and it has tig built in. i have a clarke mig for exhaust and i have a lil hobart for body work. dude that hobart is AMAZING i love it
 
I've used the millermatic 250 and that thing is ultra tunable. I've welded atv mufflers back together with it and it burns in noice without eating away the metal. And, it handles the big stuff really well. I have an OLD craftsman color matic stick welder, but I hardly ever need it.
 
i'm just a hobart fan :) best welders you can buy IMO. mine can weld anything from cheap ass aluminized exhaust pipe up to around 1/4 inch steel with no problems. and the clarke can weld thicker
 
My clarke doesn't like the thin stuff. Exhuast pipe, DOM, 3/8 steel no prob. Gotta run it hot as ****, and it has a habbit of melting the tip, but it gets the job done. I've never used a hobart, only the miller. But, the hobarts do look like a nice machine. Be nice to use a spool gun and weld aluminum for a change.
 
My clarke doesn't like the thin stuff. Exhuast pipe, DOM, 3/8 steel no prob. Gotta run it hot as ****, and it has a habbit of melting the tip, but it gets the job done. I've never used a hobart, only the miller. But, the hobarts do look like a nice machine. Be nice to use a spool gun and weld aluminum for a change.

We have a spool gun on one of the Miller's at work, it works pretty good but I would like to play with it more to really dial it in.
 
My clarke doesn't like the thin stuff. Exhuast pipe, DOM, 3/8 steel no prob. Gotta run it hot as ****, and it has a habbit of melting the tip, but it gets the job done. I've never used a hobart, only the miller. But, the hobarts do look like a nice machine. Be nice to use a spool gun and weld aluminum for a change.

i use tig when i need to weld aluminum or stainless
 
Have never used tig. Seen it done, but have never gotten to do it. Everything I do can be done with a mig. If I REALLY need something burned in good, I have a friend with a diesel miller stick. That things rocks.
 
tig takes some practice! thats for sure lol. i got the bed tore all the way down today amd 99% of the interior out (lack the steering column and heater box).
IMAG0339.jpg


IMAG0340.jpg


IMAG0341.jpg


IMAG0342.jpg
 
Love the tailgate and diggin the wagon wheels. Idk why but I've always liked em. God I can't wait to start on my 49. Get the stroker wrapped up for the warrior within the next month (hopefully) and it's 49 time! Lol. You got a great steal on that truck, girl. It's not my favorite body style but I'd take it, too!
 
pff thats the best looking body chevy ever came out with. and it wasn't even suppose to look like that... the dude that designed it did it all by himself and slid it into production before the big wigs in GM could shoot it down. he went onto design Cadillac not long after he got the truck put into production.
i gotta buy a new tailgate. i'm thinking about a smooth one and painting "chevrolet" on it in a really fancy cursive. but i also like the stamped look too
 
here is what i'm looking at for chassis, suspension, and brakes.
http://www.earlyclassic.com/catalog.aspx?category=trailing arms for the trailing arms and crossmember.

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/Brakes/6872FRBK-BB-R.htm
big brake kit! disc conversion front and back with MONSTER 13 inch front rotors. runs $1800

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/1960_1972_Chevy_Truck/6369RAC-5.htm
5lug conversion axle shafts run $290

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HSS-80390/
hotchkis handling kit

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/1960_1972_Chevy_Truck/CP4S1.htm
cpp stock height spindles (the hotchkis kit is a 4-6 drop) $239

And then a set of 17 inch wheels.. undecided no more than $250 per wheel and as always... the cheaper the better lol. thinking about something like this http://www.rocketracingwheels.com/rocket-booster-hyper-shot/p46
 
Last edited:
I'm a big fan of the stamped, raised letters, look. Think it gives it that originality. I'm keeping the stamped tail gate on mine. Need to get a new one, but not changing it's roots.
 
Back
Top