R&R Lower steering stem bearing & seals.

Well most of you know that i was starting to replace the lower steering stem bearing on my warrior and i was have quite the time with getting the 30mm collar out. So ive decided to make a tutorial for you guys and gals, if you ever have to replace this on your quad in the future.

1st step is take off the front fenders, hood, headlights, and gastank.
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Next stand the quad on its tail so it will be easier to access the steering stem bolt. Unbolt the tie rod ends from the stem and get them outta the way. Now unbolt the bottom stem bolt so the stem can slide up and outta the way. You dont have to take the upper stem mount off, but you will need to take the handle bars off so the stem will slide up. No need to take all the controls off the bars, just unbolt the bars and move them outta the way.

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Take a flat blade screw driver and pop the bottom and top stem seals out.
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Now you see the 30mm hex collar that keeps the bearing held down. This is the hardess part of the whole task. This collar will be rusted in there so start by drenching it with PB-blaster, or WD-40. Yamaha does make the right tool to get this out but they want 60 bucks for it, so what i did was went to Ace hardware and got a bolt that the hex head was 30mm and 2 nuts to fit it. Put both the nuts on it and tighten the bottom nut to the top one and use it to break the collar loose. You may need to use heat to expand the frames collar threads. I let the collar soak for 2 days with penatrating oil so it broke loose right away.
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Once the collar is out I used a long 3/8 extension with the right size socket and evenly hammer the old bearing out.
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First clean the threads and mating surfaces real good with some cleaner. Put the new bearing in the hole and use the same socket to evenly hammer the bearing in till it bottoms out.
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Now its time the put both seals in. Fill both seals with a good high temp, or waterproof bearing grease. This will help everything from getting rusted together again. Hammer both seals in till they are flush with the lip.
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Thats it, now you just have to reverse the proccess and put the stem back together, bolt the bars back on, the tie rod ends, gastank, fenders, hood and headlights.

nice job, good write up and pics this should be sticky

Thanks i figured it would help alot of people when the time comes to do theres

Its stuck. Great write up and pics to. We need great posts like this!

good writeup. one thing though, when you drive in the new bearing you shouldnt drive it in from the inner race. ball bearings arent designed to take side loads and the balls can crack and cause the bearing to wear out really fast. this isnt really a high stress bearing but its always good practice to press in new bearings using the outer race especially when ur using a hammer and socket.

just my 2 cents....

Good right up man, it'll really come in handy for everyone.

Thanks guys, yeah bikewarrior350 is right, use the outter race to drive it in. I just didnt have a socket that big handy or i would have done it that way

Thank you this helped me alot, before finding this we tried to beat the bearing out of the bottom...didnt work lol, very informative

When I did my friends, and mine, 88's I couldn't get the retaining nut out. Tried heat, soaking it, even made my own tool and tried a 1/2" impact gun, no good. Then tried a 3/4" impact gun (sounds like a turret mounted 50cal going off) still wouldn't budge, think I tried a 4' breaker bar, too. Had to use a ball end die grinding bit and cut a swath through the nut, just until you can notice the treads in the bracket. Then took a long drift and ball peen and wailed it a few times and bingo! Only problem is the treads get slightly beat up. Took out my pneumatic sawsall (sheat metal saw) and cut 1 hatch mark every 1/2" around the whole diameter of the new nut, same can be done with a hack saw. This makes it into it's own tap/thread chaiser. Apply antisieze to the treads and run it down over the bearing. Works great, done it twice. Thought that would help those who just can get the damn thing out. Just be sure to make the hatch mark on an angle like this /.

sorry to bring back from dead but does anyone know where to get a new steering stem bolt? i pulled mine off today and threaded are messed up bad!

that was a great idea using the hex head of a bolt

bagged2drag88 said:

sorry to bring back from dead but does anyone know where to get a new steering stem bolt? i pulled mine off today and threaded are messed up bad!

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Steering stem bolt? Are you talking about the threads on the stem itself? If so your gonna need a new stem or try and clean the threads with a die.

im talking about the 30mm bearing retainer nut, guess i should of read my post before i posted it, i cant find that part anywhere and i messed the threads up pulled the damn thing out

Yamaha part # 2GU-23872-00-00. Thats the only place to get new. Cut a hash mark (/) in the threads to make it into it's own thread chaser. Try to install it without doing that first, you may not need to do it. Read my post in this thread from 2-27-2012.

Nice tutorial. both my yfz and warrior are easy to remove. Made a simple cheap tool like your way. Welded the nut to the bolt and then used socket / ratchet on it.

no one has asked and it hasn't been noted, but at the threads for the bearing retainer standard thread or reverse?

Pretty sure the regular threads although it was forever ago when I did this haha

They are right hand thread.

Good pics and walk through now I wont have to spend time on youtube looking how to do it

i welded a socket on the 30mm bolt


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