390 webcam

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baja226sport

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I have a 390 webcam and am wondering about installation. The 390 hotcam says you can use stock springs. Webcam says no. They have the same valve lift and similar duration. do I really need their valve spring kit or are they just trying to sell something?
 
If webcams says no then no; hotcams is full of **** & they tell you stuff/put products out there that they dont even test.
 
Another question I have is whether or not this cam is worth installing. I am going to eventually add a high comp. piston but not right now as mine is still healthy. So will I benefit from this cam? Also, when I do rebuild should I go with a bigger cam?
 
Yes you will benefit but it may be in your interest to get a higher lift since you are getting the springs anyway. My entire stance on this kinda' thing is the following: Why spend money on a part that you know you are only going to end up spending even more money on later to change it? In the long run you are spending way more money then you had to of spent initially to get the results you wanted in the first place. I don't put new money into old money or new money into new money; just one of my rules.
 
I understand, i just already have the 390, so I figured if it would be worth installing until I have all the money to do the whole rebuild, why not. i do all of my own work so it is not like I am paying anyone. I had just heard that the 390 was almost stock lift wise and i wouldn't benefit.
 
You should of got the full race webcam, the warrior has a six speed trans with very low gears to start with. The extra gear is exactly like two strokes, it will enable you to stay within the midrange and top end powerband. Any time you get a cam (other than the ****** hotcams) you should always add the springs and piston. You'll have much more top end and be able to rev much higher than the stock springs can handle, therefor floating the valves. If you compare the lobes on the web cam to the lobes on the stocker you'll notice the width is much greater on the webcam, which will mean the valves have less time to return and seat at higher rpms. You should see the lobes on the full race cam, they are ******* wide as hell compared to the stocker, a massive duration!!! ;D
 
Oh yeah, reason being that hotcams suck is they are designed to only give very little gain over stock without any loss of bottom end. The average joe will do a rebuild with higher compression and won't need the bottom end regardless. In my opinion the warrior has plenty of bottom end to spare, the stock cam makes it run like a tractor, let the motor rip and get the race cam.
 
The race cams duration was actually designed more for TT applications and I was actually discouraged by Powroll & FSTs very informative technicians against this type of cam for anything but hard packed track (TT/Drags). When inquiring about purchasing the very large duration race cam to replace my midrange I was informed that the midrange is better suited for the offroad/MX environment. They also went on to elaborate about it being better with the stroker setup because the midrange cams are designed to give more useable power with out having to really wind the **** out of the motor. The full race cams really need you to wind it up to get that power out - this is bad for strokers/offroading/and the type of MX tracks around here needing lots of out of the hole/corner power.
 
I guess I will sell off the 12:1 piston and .390 cam I got and go with a different set up. I am still gonna use the p+ p head and get that oversized valve put in. Now I just gotta figure out this damn carb!!!!!
 
The race cam also gives you a shitload of midrange also, as for me even on the tight trails I ride the midrange most of the time and when I hit the wide open orv routes it's time to haul balls. With a stroker and a all around ignition timing you should be able to still pull out of the bottom no prob. The reason I really wanted the top end cam was for the hills here, you definately want a excess of top end and midrange for them, the low end doesn't do **** on them. The orv routes greatly resemble a snakelike tt course here with a ton of hills, I almost never leave the midrange while cruising. Even on the insane raptor 660 stroker kits they say to stay below the mid 9's, that leaves plenty of room for midrange and top end. I really doubt if they would build a stroker kit that couldn't withstand an average of 6 or 7000 rpm riding. The hotrods stroker isn't too severe of a stroke compared to many out there, I wouldn't worry that much about it compared to the 9mm + kits out there.
 
Get the edelbrock carb, just buy it new so we don't have to answer tuning ?'s a 1000 times over. Many people on here are buying the ebay ones and relying on us to pretty much tune it, just call up edel and ask for directions or have someone email you them if you get it. It is very tricky since it is a new concept of carb tuning, but very simple compared to normal carbs, and a shitload better.
 
You guys offer alot of good information, thanks for the input. I guess i will most likely skip the average rebuild and wait until boating season when I am not really riding and dump money into a stroker or something.
 
The hotrods kit is 650, but not including the gaskets and any other bearings or worn parts. I would agree, this forum is tits for info, many a thanks to our goth admin mr shadow!!! ;) ;D
 
Do you do your own assembly? If so how hard is the bottom end? If not how expensive was it to get it done?
 
The race cam also gives you a shitload of midrange also, as for me even on the tight trails I ride the midrange most of the time and when I hit the wide open orv routes it's time to haul balls. With a stroker and a all around ignition timing you should be able to still pull out of the bottom no prob. The reason I really wanted the top end cam was for the hills here, you definately want a excess of top end and midrange for them, the low end doesn't do **** on them. The orv routes greatly resemble a snakelike tt course here with a ton of hills, I almost never leave the midrange while cruising. Even on the insane raptor 660 stroker kits they say to stay below the mid 9's, that leaves plenty of room for midrange and top end. I really doubt if they would build a stroker kit that couldn't withstand an average of 6 or 7000 rpm riding. The hotrods stroker isn't too severe of a stroke compared to many out there, I wouldn't worry that much about it compared to the 9mm + kits out there.

I am just saying what the pros are saying - they are telling me the midrange cams are much better unless I am full out dragging all the time pretty much; who am I to argue with them? When a company flat out trys not to sell me their race cam to replace the one I have they must firmly believe in what they are telling me about it. lol They also arent talking about 6-7,000 RPM riding; with full race they were talking about 8-9,000 RPM riding for the cam to even be beneficial over the midrange cam - that RPM would put you in the upper threshold of your piston speed limit with a stroker.
 
I've asked a couple people around with the web race cam and I've only heard good things about the powerband location, the megacycle would be a very bad choice for our setup. The web is a strong midrange with a little more on top than a typical midrange cam. That megacycle would definately be a drag or hill climbing specialist. Remember that crotts guy on atv connection death? That guy ran the megacycle and with 22" tires for mx riding, and more than likely killed himself since he disappeared almost instantly one day.
 
Anyone wanna buy the cam.....supposed to be 3 hrs of time on it. New bearing installed. $50.00
 
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