Asr vs NEW full flight a arms

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Update: reached out to full flight and apparently this is an updated design, just not one that fits the description or pictures. They are still in the process of changing things on their website and the picture/description is more or less a placeholder.
Apparently the hiems are all upgraded chromoly and Teflon lined with something like a 9000lb load rating. Aside from that miscommunication they seem nice, the powdercoating is perfect and the build quality at a glance is quite good. I'll be installing them and getting a good riding review in this weekend
 
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Update: reached out to full flight and apparently this is an updated design, just not one that fits the description or pictures. They are still in the process of changing things on their website and the picture/description is more or less a placeholder.
Apparently the hiems are all upgraded chromoly and Teflon lined with something like a 9000lb load rating. Aside from that miscommunication they seem nice, the powdercoating is perfect and the build quality at a glance is quite good. I'll be installing them and getting a good riding review in this weekend
Good deal send a picture of the stance when your done installation, what shocks you running with the arms
 
Rough measurements for people to compare to old design
 

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Well guys, I did everything I could to make sure this operation went smoothly, did as much research as I could to make sure what I was doing made sense. I wanted simple, tried, and true but instead...
20240508_222454.jpg

I'm a cautionary tale.
Can't even be mad because they literally fixed a mistake with the old design, but I was baniibg on 2 wrongs making right.
I managed to make some adjustments and found a sweet spot where the suspension gets nearly 2 extra inches of droop before the ball joints max out which makes the yfz shock miss its mark less than pictured. The lower mount position makes the springs a bit too soft.
I'm thinking I'm going to plate and relocate the upper mount out and for 2 reasons... itll make the shock angle more favorable for stiffness and I can position it so the shock limits the travel to take the strain off the ball joints. It's not what I was expecting to do but hey, I guess I'll take the accidental long(ish) travel set up.
Since it was requested, I shoe horned the yfz elkas in and got a picture how it sits, camber and toe need slight adjustments before i fab tge shock mounts20240509_002307.jpg
 
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Tldr; the new designed full flight a arms no longer work with carb model yfz shocks and are instead a fit for stock length shocks, but the build quality is nice.
 
So for anyone thinking "oh wow race suspension is super cool look at all them adjustments!"
It's a huge pain in the ass.
Buy an angle finder, and assume that your old frame is bent and your new parts were built on a friday..
I must have taken them ball joints out a half a dozen times each before I got everything alright before finding out only after a test ride that the castor angle is far enough off to make the steering suck. Turns out, having the front to back upper arm adjustment even is 100% incorrect, and in an article I found from full flight themselves they recommend turning the back side adjuster out 3 or 4 turns. Why the ****? So yeah imma have to redo the whole ass alignment once I get my angle tool.
Oh also the elkas gotta be rebuilt.
Been buying alot of **** off the internet off strangers, hell even going back to the early days of "gonna get mugged" craigslist and I never had any issues but first the "rebuilt" rear and now the "good lightly used" front shocks I got burned on.
But according to a co worker, the quad looks "cool because the stickers on the arms" so I guess I got that going which is nice
 
I'll have to double check when they are off I think it's 16 or 16.5. Apparently they were off an 07 yfz450
 
Update: figured out why I've been having such a hard time dialing in the caster angle
20240515_202754.jpg
It's tough to see in the picture but relative to stock the lower arm is not just a +2 wide but also a bout 3/4 forward. The stock a arms have the ball joint a hair behind center and the shock mount a bit ahead of center, the full flights put the ball joint in line with the shock mount. It wouldn't be a big deal but the upper arms are centered and symmetrical, just like stock.
You have to put alot of turns out on the rear upper arm to get the caster even close to in line. I'd love to put the lower front hiem out too but the way the lower arm is made, moving the hiems out makes the arm too wide to fit the frame, and even if you made your own misalignment spacers, the hiem angles are maxed out anyhow.
Was all this the case with the old design too or is this a fresh batch of ********?
 
So for anyone thinking "oh wow race suspension is super cool look at all them adjustments!"
It's a huge pain in the ass.
Buy an angle finder, and assume that your old frame is bent and your new parts were built on a friday..
I must have taken them ball joints out a half a dozen times each before I got everything alright before finding out only after a test ride that the castor angle is far enough off to make the steering suck. Turns out, having the front to back upper arm adjustment even is 100% incorrect, and in an article I found from full flight themselves they recommend turning the back side adjuster out 3 or 4 turns. Why the ****? So yeah imma have to redo the whole ass alignment once I get my angle tool.
Oh also the elkas gotta be rebuilt.
Been buying alot of **** off the internet off strangers, hell even going back to the early days of "gonna get mugged" craigslist and I never had any issues but first the "rebuilt" rear and now the "good lightly used" front shocks I got burned on.
But according to a co worker, the quad looks "cool because the stickers on the arms" so I guess I got that going which is nice
Keep your head up but at least the stickers look cool 😎
 
Well guys, I did everything I could to make sure this operation went smoothly, did as much research as I could to make sure what I was doing made sense. I wanted simple, tried, and true but instead...
View attachment 5569

I'm a cautionary tale.
Can't even be mad because they literally fixed a mistake with the old design, but I was baniibg on 2 wrongs making right.
I managed to make some adjustments and found a sweet spot where the suspension gets nearly 2 extra inches of droop before the ball joints max out which makes the yfz shock miss its mark less than pictured. The lower mount position makes the springs a bit too soft.
I'm thinking I'm going to plate and relocate the upper mount out and for 2 reasons... itll make the shock angle more favorable for stiffness and I can position it so the shock limits the travel to take the strain off the ball joints. It's not what I was expecting to do but hey, I guess I'll take the accidental long(ish) travel set up.
Since it was requested, I shoe horned the yfz elkas in and got a picture how it sits, camber and toe need slight adjustments before i fab tge shock mountsView attachment 5570
They definitely sit more on a 45 then horizontal now way better
 
Just curious... how many riding hours does it usually take to break in the ball joints?
I've got the steering geometry pretty well dialed in but the steering is super stiff so I can't really feel what further changes and adjustments I have to make. Put about 2 hours worth of riding and it hasn't loosened up a bit. Hoping to have it moving freely for when my shocks get back from the builder so I can make my new mounts
 
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