How to fix holes in my airbox lid?

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jester2899

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Alright, so the kid before me, went crazy with the airbox lid, and drilled small holes randomly, and then one big hole in the middle. See, I want to get the most protection, but with just holes in the lid, I wont be getting protection. The raptor 350 lid is not smooth on the underside, it has like things sticking out, so its not like I can just cover them up. I was wondering in every ones opinion what I should do? I have a HMF exhaust, and I am looking to keep the engine safe, so I need more air. To get a new lid its like 25-35$, to me I think thats a waste of money. So my idea was to make a cover out of plexi-glass, and drill some holes, and put those mini filters in them, and I would get protection, and still get more air. Would this work out, because I will no longer have the intact at the top, like the stock lid has. So I was going to take the 6 filters, and put them around the outside. Then I was going to drill a 2" hole, and put some screening over it, to compensate, for the lack of the intake at the top.

http://yfm350.proboards31.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=1195274283

I was also going to put some PVC pipe in this hole, so I can use a clamp on style filter, and get more air.

Would this be good? I think I would get a lot more air, and some good amount of an increase in power.


Any Opinions, or pictures of home-made lids or anything like that?
 
The link you point to is my Raptor 350.

Thats a typical 2" ABS plastic pipe coupler, that I honed out slightly with my lathe. I tested that configuration over the weekend against removing the lid completely, and there was no difference. The additional 2" hole flows way more than enough.

What you dont see in that pic is the Outerwears cover on the K&N filter (I put it on after the pics were taken). That in itself will protect the filter from large debris and water.

I was going to put an additional Outerwears over the snorkel I added, but I havent got around to it yet. I'm not 100% convinced I need it anyways. The holes position under the seat, and the lip on the snorkel, give it excellent cover from the elements.

I powered through some deeper water/mud, and the whole ATV was caked, the top of the lid had very little on it.
 
The link you point to is my Raptor 350.

Thats a typical 2" ABS plastic pipe coupler, that I honed out slightly with my lathe. I tested that configuration over the weekend against removing the lid completely, and there was no difference. The additional 2" hole flows way more than enough.

What you dont see in that pic is the Outerwears cover on the K&N filter (I put it on after the pics were taken). That in itself will protect the filter from large debris and water.

I was going to put an additional Outerwears over the snorkel I added, but I havent got around to it yet. I'm not 100% convinced I need it anyways. The holes position under the seat, and the lip on the snorkel, give it excellent cover from the elements.

I powered through some deeper water/mud, and the whole ATV was caked, the top of the lid had very little on it.

Alright thanks, How exactly did u install the pipe into the carb? I only have PVC piping available to me, so I can't use metal like you did. Do you just stick it into the hole with some glue/ and sealing?

Was there an increase in performance just by doing this?
 
Alright thanks, How exactly did u install the pipe into the carb? I only have PVC piping available to me, so I can't use metal like you did. Do you just stick it into the hole with some glue/ and sealing?

Was there an increase in performance just by doing this?

PVC might not put up with the heat, ABS plastic will. So try to find some 2.5" ABS plastic pipe, it also wont shatter like PVC can.

The pipe is bonded to the throat on the airbox itself, it sticks out slightly on the other side, and goes into the stock rubber boot between the carb and airbox.

I press fit the pipe into the airbox hole, with a pipe expander, and used Permatex Black silicon (works best on ABS and aluminum) to seal it in place.

The pipe acts as a small velocity stack, but its probably not a big difference in that regard. Its main purpose is to allow the use of a clamp-on K&N filter.

The K&N filter, with the additional 2" hole in the box, netted a notable HP gain (used in conjunction with aftermarket exhaust), and requires rejetting the carbs.

Hope that helps.
 
PVC might not put up with the heat, ABS plastic will. So try to find some 2.5 ABS plastic pipe, it also wont shatter like PVC can.

The pipe is bonded to the throat on the airbox itself, it sticks out slightly on the other side, and goes into the stock rubber boot between the carb and airbox.

I press fit the pipe into the airbox hole, with a pipe expander, and used Permatex Black silicon (works best on ABS and aluminum) to seal it in place.

The pipe acts as a small velocity stack, but its probably not a big difference in that regard. Its main purpose is to allow the use of a clamp-on K&N filter.

The K&N filter, with the additional hole in the box, netted a notable HP gain (used in conjunction with aftermarket exhaust), and requires rejetting the carbs.

Hope that helps.

Alright, I see what your saying about the temps. Well maybe I could go to Home Depot and see what they have.

I was also wondering if you could do a 2.5" to a higher number, so you can get more air.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-5-TO-3-REDUCER-COUPLER-TURBO-HOSE-PIPING-NEW_W0QQitemZ150188574902QQihZ005QQcategoryZ33742QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Something like this? I guess its basically trail and error. I don't have a pipe expander, so I will prob have to use some silicon, and JB weld stuff, if I get metal.


Does anyone think, my idea for the lid would work? To have the filters around the outside of the plexi-glass, and then have like a big hole with netting over it, or like you did, get something with a lip over it.
 
I was also wondering if you could do a 2.5" to a higher number, so you can get more air.

Nope. Doesnt work like that.

The airbox and intake boot are 2.5" on the airbox side, on the carb side its only around 2".

Putting a 3" pipe on the airbox side wont accomplish anything.

The only thing that helps is a K&N air filter, and opening up the airbox lid. That combo is going to flow more than the carb & engine can use anyways, so you'll be at maximum.
 
Are you sure you priced the lid or the whole air box. Lids for the raptor at my dealer are 11.50.
 
Well its 30$ off of ebay just for the lid shipped. Haven't called my local local dealer yet, because ether way I kind of want to make my own. I had plan on putting those small filters on 3 on the top and 3 on the bottom, and then cutting a rectangle in the middle, with some screen over the square, to kind of filter the big stuff.

I may go to home depot tonight for the tubing for the filter, I need to see if they even have a 2.5" piece of steal tubing or something, that will withstand the heat and stuff.

Im looking to spend as little money as possible, but want to a little more performance and still want protection.
 
BE CAREFUL PVC/ABS GLUE WILL A LOT OF PLASTICS TO GOO. It attaches pieces of PVC by chemically melting them and letting them bond back together. I would reccomend PC7 epoxy. It is super strong (stronger than JB Weld from what I have seen) and they even make some that will cure underwater.
 
I used a light fixture for mine. The O.D was 2 1/2 inches and the I.D of a the K&N was 2 1/2 inches so if fit. Then i drilled 4 holes in the light fixture and bolted it up to the intake and put some silicone around it. Works good.
 
I used a light fixture for mine. The O.D was 2 1/2 inches and the I.D of a the K&N was 2 1/2 inches so if fit. Then i drilled 4 holes in the light fixture and bolted it up to the intake and put some silicone around it. Works good.

Any pictures perhaps?


Im wondering if its just better to buy everything, but it could get pricing.

My dad is the kind of guy that wont try and build anything, if you can buy it, which I hate, so I would have to build the lid, and insides all by myself.

Anybody know, how I could still use the stock air box clamps, to hold down the lid, with a flat piece of plexi?
 
Quick question guys. For the people that run no lids, do any ride in dirt/dust/water/mud conditions? Im thinking if I got someone to make me a custom outerwear the size of the lid, I could put that right over the hole thing, so it would be easier yet still protect?

I may just stick with the old Plexi-Glass and small filters idea.
 
that does sound like a cool idea but i think some one sells a lid on ebay with the outerwears in it. if you can do it yourself for cheaper I say try it.
 
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