steering problem

[johnsmith133]

ok so i swapped my a arms out with +3 arms, and tie-rod. so now when i turn the handle bars on the jack its hard for me to turn them.(not like hard where i can't do it) just a little stiff. when its on a jack i'm sure it should turn freely but its fighting me a little bit(slightly). is it because they are good ball joints and just havn't really gotten worn it yet? or do i need to back the joints out a thread to adjust them. or is it something else. let me know, do i wait it out. or fix it asap

 

[Gen1Pat]

Nearly every time you install brand new steering componants the required steering effort is encreased, until they get broken in some. Especially on automobles, which I work on daily. However... I have not installed extended a arms and such on a quad yet, so there COULD be something(s) you need to do. You are best to talk to weston about this. The guy is really good with aftermarket and long travel suspension.

 

[johnsmith133]

thank you. i mean its just alittle bit more effort to turn then it was before. they not new a arms. i think the joints are fairly new cuz i couldnt swivle them with my hand when they were off of the quad. i have a feeling thats the reason tbh

 

[duneracerweston]

if its not, you got tomuch caster, that can make it harder to turn on or off the stand

 

[johnsmith133]

and to fix this i have too... im not really familiar with suspention and **** so once its all good its gonna stay the way it is for awhile. i just ordered some works

 

[duneracerweston]

work with the adjustments on the upper a arm and move the uper balljoint forward in relation to the machine and that will lighten it up, although if you go to far it will get twichy.

 

[Gen1Pat]

It'll be especially hard when on the ground. Be worse when you are riding because you have the forword motion fighting you as well. Caster is basically there for straight line drivability, and steering wheel returnability (in autos, but same applies to atvs). Your caster is too postive, like weston said. Since this is basically like upper control arm eccentrics like a gmc truck, or shims on a nissan truck, turn the front heim in a turn and the rear heim out a turn. Doing that will make the caster negative while keeping the camber the same. Try it a turn at a time till it feels good. But, too negative a caster setting and it'll be twitchy.

 

[Mathius]

Careful with your adjustments.. To much negative camber will cause unpredictable bump steer.

FYI: Negative camber is when the top of the tire points inward toward the frame.

 

[Gen1Pat]

Yes it will ^^ but the good thing is, if his arms are 12 point adjustable, he can turn both lower heims in the same amount to adjust camber, or can adjust the ball joint heims to do the same. I wish cars were 12 point adjustable sometimes. Would make alignments so much easier for certain cars, especially these rediculas lowered fast and furious wanna bees.

 

[88WarriorBoy]

^^^ Yeah goota love RICE BURNERS :lmao:

 

[Gen1Pat]

I like my nissans, but these idiots that have no clue about cars need to leave them alone! I have to use 2x8 planks to drive the cars on to get the lift arms under them. And rice burner my ass, I've hurt some feelings at stop lights with my truck. American muscle *******! lol.

 

[johnsmith133]

ok i will try that. thanks weston. if i need help ill pm you

 

[johnsmith133]

thanks everybody. so turn my upper joint a turn at a time and see if it loosens up a bit. ill make sure its not too loose.

 

[Gen1Pat]

Yes, but you will want to turn the otherone the opposite way like I said. If not your camber will become negative. I.e. turn the front one in a half turn (180*) and turn the rear one out a half turn. This makes the caster go negative while keeping the camber the same. The good thing is you can adjust your upper balljoint out to compensate the camber and get it's angle where you want it. Just do it a half turn at a time until it feels good.

Keep in mind that I am a car mechanic, and this is a common procedure in alignments. However, the SAME principles/procedures still apply, and like I said you have the added joy of being able to adjust your balljoint in or out for the camber angle.

 

[Gen1Pat]

And incase you are unfamilar with alignment angles/adjustments. In the order they are adjusted on a car, caster is (simplified explaination) the postion of the upper balljoint infront (negative) or behind (positive) the lower balljoint.

Camber is the position of the top of the tire, leaning in (towards the vehicle/engine ) which is a negative angle, or leaning out (away from vehicle) which is a positive angle.

Toe is litterally the tire(s) pointing in (pigion toed) which is a positive angle, or pointing out (toed out) which is a negative angle.