Clutch "Dragging", HELP

[ronbo422]

Hey everyone,
I'm new to ATV's and just bought a used '99 Warrior for $2K. Last night I changed the oil. Now today when I went to move the quad around in the drive to wash it I noticed the clutch wasn't disengaging completely, especially when using Reverse. I almost killed it when I pulled the clutch in and hit the brakes while backing up in Rev.
I put Valvoline ATV 10W40 in it. What am I missing here? I filled it to the top line on the dipstick (per the manuals way of checking the level WITHOUT screwing the dipstick in)

Anybody had this happen to them? Is it the oil or what?

Thanks,
Ronbo

 

[dswwarrior350]

Did you try adjusting the lever at the perch?

 

[ronbo422]

No, I didn't. I just found the problem about 3 hours ago, and being that the quad has ran good the past 2 weeks I've owned it, I figured that there must be some link between the clutch dragging and the oil change I did on it last night.

Might I need to adjust it after an oil change? Was there something potentially wrong with the oil I dropped last night? It still had some transparency to it....not black like you would normally see from a cars oil change.

~Ronbo

 

[dswwarrior350]

The oil should have no real effect on the disengaging of the clutch, unless of course you put something terribly wrong in it.

Id say try adjusting the cable on the bars first. If that doesnt help, then maybe the reverse linkage.

 

[ronbo422]

Could I have shot myself in the foot by topping the oil off to the MAX mark? Where do you guys keep your oil levels? Midway between the marks, perhaps?

~Ronbo

 

[atv]

I keep mine like 3/4 to the top line... and like if you have it in first or watever and to move it you pull in the clutch but its hard to push? cause thats what its doing to mine and i just havent really worried about it...

 

[ronbo422]

Yeah, exactly. I noticed that too in the garage. Seemed harder than normal to move the quad with the clutch pulled in and me on it "Flinstoning" it. The oil change is the ONLY thing I did to it.

~Ronbo

 

[james7734]

Your clutch plates are getting worn. I had that problem last year with my quad and i called the dealer and they said that is was the clutch plates. I changed them and now the problem is gone. The quad doesn't even jump forward when I am starting it anymore. Try that....just my $.02

 

[ronbo422]

Would a worn clutch also be causing the quad to nudge forward when I kick it into 1st gear? Or is that normal?

Who's clutch components would you guys recommend me using?

~Ronbo

 

[rfmracing]

Yes that would make it nudge.... I would recomend the Dirt Digger..thats what i had in the Warrior and now in the Banshee...but i will be changing to Hinson soon...Dirt diggers are fairly cheap about a buck twenty..or you can go EBC for a hundred...

There both on this page......

http://www.magicracing.com/search.asp?keyword=warrior&sortby=1&page=6

 

[ronbo422]

I guess I'd wanna get the entire kit with new springs and all. Should I get a new pressure plate as well? I'm thinking in car terms where I'vwe always replaced the clutch and pressure plate as a set.

Having never done an ATV/Motorcycle clutch do I need any special Yamaha tools to do the job?
~Ronbo

 

[usdsk8er540]

well, i thought i heard somewhere that you shouldnt really be able to push it around with the clutch pulled in. i might just be talking out of my ass though. i would check your cables first, routing, adjustment, and the arm (over on the right side case). start simple and then work up to harder/more expensive fixes. although, with a 99 i would say that changing the clutch plates wouldnt be a bad idea. i could say just one of the clutch kits like rfm mentioned. not sure if you need special tools though. you could call a local shop and see. my clymer manual mentions a clutch holder tool or something like that. other than that, i dont know.

 

[bickel76]

a clutch kit with springs hopefully is all you will need. worst case scenario you would have to replace your clutch basket too. unfortunately, you cant tell the condition of the basket until you have atleast the clutch cover off. maybe someone knows of a way to check that beforehand though. replacing the clutch isnt hard at all. honestly, the most time consuming part of it is prepping the case and cover for a new seal. as far as which clutch to get, i went with the ebc but i dont know if i should have gone with the dirt digger or not. i havent had any problems with my clutch, but i dont know if is strong enough with the additional power i plan on having. maybe i will be able to just upgrade the springs, but i'm not gonna half-ass it.

 

[ronbo422]

I've noticed that I don't get any movement out of the bike (no real clutch engagement) until the clutch lever is almost all the way out.....maybe the last 3/4" of travel of the lever. Should the quad start moving before the lever's that far out? Maybe a worn clutch is what I'm looking at, although I haven't noticed the clutch slip at all when it's fully engaged.
I've been looking at Barnett's clutch components, including the Aluminum basket w/stainless steel inserts. I plan on going with a big-bore kit on this thing this coming winter. I'm all into big cubes. Heck, I stuffed a 572 into my '91 Camaro...which is another project still in the works.
Thanks for the input.
~Ronbo

 

[yamarider]

it's normal for the clutch not grab until the lever is most of the way out, my clutch was like that when it was brand new

 

[ronbo422]

Coolness...that's good to know. I need a new clutch lever, as the original flops around a bit from what appears to be slop in the pivot area were it's worn. I wonder if a $13 original would even be worth it, or is there someone else who makes replacement levers for the stock perch?
~Ronbo

 

[yamarider]

Go aftermarket with the clutch lever. A moose lever with a brass pivot point is only like 10 bucks, or spend a little more for an aftermarket lever with bearings on the pivot point. Check out my pics, right now i'm running a quick adjust clutch perch with a stock raptor 660 lever, once the pivot wears out on that lever i'm getting a moose lever. Stock levers suck, just having a brass pivot point makes them last like 10 times longer.

 

[ronbo422]

Dang, should'a picked one up while I was at the parts house today getting new grips. Maybe I'll run over to the Yamaha dealership tomorrow before I head out to the trails.
I checked out Mooses website and I like the looks of their Ultimate Clutch Lever System. I wanna yank the parking brake off as well.

BTW, nice looking quad.....'specially the Edelbrock carb.

~Ronbo

 

[DeathShadow]

Two things:

1. Use MOTORCYCLE FORMULATED OIL ONLY - oil not formulated for wet clutches will destroy them real quick.
2. DO NOT use Barnette clutches - THEY ******* KILL your clutch basket and are just all around terrible.

 

[boxhead]

Get one similar to the SRP Metals ez pull pro perch clutch lever, you won't regret saving the additional $20. The SRP ez pull brings the clutch lever much closer to the bars and saves your hands much stress. You won't believe how much faster you'll be able to shift. It has a bearing pivot and rotates around the bars in accidents, two definately good factors.