She's all outta WACK

[PA00warrior]

Rejetted the Zoom Zoom carb tonight:
147.5 main jet and 45 pilot, adjusted mixture screw to 2 turns out from seated, did nothing with needle postion of anything else.

I looked into the sticky on the raptor cable mod and got all the neccessary parts like the cable holder, bolt, torsion spring and the push lever assy when i ordered the clutch perch/lever. might i add very useful write up. Now just waiting on lots of parts! (and research of course to find tune the specifics of this parking break delete) as far as i could find searching the forums, its only truely addressed for the raptors. Looking in the yamaha service manual its hard to tell what the other 2 wires connected to the OEM perch are called or their purpose. Is it just a matter of disconnecting the PB cable and the 2 wires, removing it from the back caliper and installing a sealed on PB block off plate and pulling the PB cable out? I traced the wires tonight and they transition by the steering column if im not mistaken (not sure if thats a type of connection that is? apologies for the noiveness) Any insight on these 2 wires? Their name and purpose? again, apologies if this is repeated topic of discussion. If its not addressed warrior specific already ill even try and do a breif write up of the process. Cant wiat till they start piling in! really hyped onthe msr shifter. Thanks for the help all..

 

[PA00warrior]

Also if gas leaks out of my fuel tube from the tank when the petcock is in the off position the valve in the petcock is worn out, correct?

 

[Warrior1996]

Yup, you need a new petcock or they might make a rebuild kit that'll work for it. As for the parking brake switch, look no further:



I made this picture last week and have posted it 3 times now lol...

 

[PA00warrior]

TFTI!! That's a handy diagram, much appreciated. Just pull em apart and plug back together and good to go sounds easy enough to me. Haha next on the list, new petcock, I think I saw em on Amazon for under 10bucks or something close. I'm going to have a flood of parts for the next month at this rate. Prolly going to handle my alignment tomorrow and give her a good ride to see if the jetting is proper, going to change oil an filter again within the next couple days since its summer and 5w30 seems to light for summer conditions with how hot the war-whore gets. I saw in your build thread warrior1996 that around 15w40 is ideal? That rotella oil, runs nice? I've been running Yamalube since I bought it in October, but Im thinking the viscosity is to light after what Ive been reading. Also I know I've been jumping around in discussion but what can I say she's all outta wack! but the PO was running 91octane gas in the bike so I have as well, his thought was keeping the carb and what not cleaner, thoughts on running the 91?

 

[Warrior1996]

Yeah the 15w40 rotella oil is what a lot of members run. As for gas, I run 87, but only because I am at stock compression. The only reason to run higher octane is if you run higher compression. The 91 isn't going to hurt anything, but as long as you run the bike every once in a while, the carb will stay clean.

 

[PA00warrior]

Well getting back to the zoom zoom carb, I got over to work in the quad tonight, finished up putting the bike back together from lastnight enough to ride for a test. Wouldnt start at first because the carb had been drained gave her gas with the throttle and after couple more tries it started, ran for maybe 30 secs and died. Tried acouple more times wouldn't start. Took the air box lid off and tried after I gave it alittle rest and it fired up and was idling, turned the idle to a good spot, and then I gave it alittle gas, reacted fine it I eased the throttle is real gently but if I tried to do any snappy brap with the throttle it cut out, did it twice in a row after restarting, so I figured I'd see if it would just sit there and idle for acouple minutes. Lasted maybe a minute and cut out and then wouldn't start.

I jetted to a 147.5 main jet and pilot jet 45

It idled the best I've ever heard when it had the stock 42.5, should I go back down?

I adjusted nothing else on the carburetor, I 'assumed' everything was spec.

My mixture screw (or pilot screw I guess?) is 2 turns out from seated, and the idle speed screw was adjusted.
I mean maybe this sounds stupid cause I'm still new to this but the header pipe got really hot really fast, to hot to touch within seconds, is the operating temp on these bikes really that intense or is that telling me the bike is messed up at idle?

 

[PA00warrior]

So downsized pilot to stock 42.5 and its running good now, got the yz250f shifter and strapped that on, got all the parts to do the clutch perch/ lever and raptor 350 cable. Got everything on but can't seem to get the clutch to engage/disengage, Im thinking it had something to do with the wires that come out of the stock perch. I used your diagram warrior1996 and plugged the double ended wires together on te harness side of them, but what is done with the other wire with that has the plug end on it on the harness side? Just let it hang? If so then it must be something to do with my cable adjustment but I'm pretty sure that it's good. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Warrior1996]

If you plugged the harness side together (sounds like you did), wiring is taken care of. As long as the bike will start up and rev throughout the rpm range, you have it done correctly. As for engage/disengage, which problem do you have?, is the bike not engaging gear or is the clutch not releasing? sounds like you need to adjust the lever. Remember when you put the raptor cable on, you have to clock the lever towards the rear of the bike.

 

[PA00warrior]

Okay so bike starts and seems to run fine, didnt really try giving her a good rev to see if it goes through the whole rpm range but idled fine, so I'm assuming wiring is correct?

To clarify the 2 wires coming out of the stock perch..
One is the clutch switch and one is then PB lead, correct?
The wire that comes down and splits into 2 wire to wire connections in the rubber connectors is the clutch switch? You take both ends that come out of the harness side and plug them together, basically telling the bike the clutch is there?

The other wire with a plug connection from the perch to harness side is the PB lead which just hangs after the stock perch is removed, or is removed all together. do I have all that straight?

While idling in neutral I can pull the clutch lever to the handle bar and shift down into first and it'll jump forward and stall like its not engaging the pressure plate disengaging the gears, I've got the cable lever that comes out of the motor basically pointing at the rear tire maybe even clocked back a tad further. When I pull the clutch lever the cable moves alittle and as I release it moves Alittle again as if everything is pulling correctly, but seems to not be doing anything when I start it up and try and ride.

Apologies for the long windedness, but just tryna to get everything straight and rule out why is not a potential cause of the problem..

 

[Warrior1996]

Ok I just looked this up because I was unsure, my bike only has the bullet connectors, not the plastic one, since it's older (I'm assuming).

You must bypass the clutch switch, the one with two wires. By plugging these into eachother, you're telling the bike that the clutch is always pulled in. Now, this means the bike will turn over in gear without the clutch pulled in, so be careful. The plug can be left there just hanging, nothing else needed. I think you're cable/clutch lever is in need of adjustment. It sounds like your clutch lever is clocked to far counterclockwise, your's points to the rear right tire, mine points more towards the center of the axle. The slack is then taken up by the threaded portion of the clutch cable, at least that's how mine is.

 

[PA00warrior]

Okay thanks for the clarity man, I'll be heading over to work on it after work today and I'll post some pics and let ya know how it works out, I'm thinking your right it's just a matter of adjustment, hoping at least haha

 

[Warrior1996]

I've heard before people have issues adjusting when they swap set ups. When I did mine it went perfectly first try, but who knows, maybe I got luckily. Hopefully you can get it adjusted right, the new set up is way better.

 

[PA00warrior]

Yeah reading through the cable swap sticky it seems like it was mixed on weather it was quick and easy or mind ******* people, pardon the sailor speak, but overall it seemed like most people had no problem, we'll see, I was beginning to think lastnight it was just me, I'm havin a buddy who rides a raptor 700 and raced dirt scooters for acouple years help me out so hopefully between the 2 of us we'll figure it out, after feeling the pull there's no way I'm going back to stock setup, I will make this work!

 

[PA00warrior]

It was all in the adjustments, got it all figured out and rode hard all afternoon yesterday, the clutch lever pulls like a hot knife through butter, and add in the snappy shifting from the msr yz250f shifter and it ride like a whole new bike. With the new carb and jetting it rides smoother in high gears high rpms. And best of all, no more glowing header pipe. So stoked.. Thanks for all the help and information, I'm not sure I would have been able to get my quad as good as it is now if the members of the forum weren't so helpful and willing to share their knowledge, big thanks to all!

 

[lbjamm]

Glad you got it working good.

 

[Warrior1996]

Awesome, good to hear.