Stroker build

[88WarriorBoy]

lookin great pat

 

[JakeBloom]

Looks awesome.

 

[Gen1Pat]

Thanks guys. Should be starting on the a arms tomorrow. That way I can get this bitch balanced so she won't teeter-toter on the jack.

 

[DeadLastRacing]

damn sexy.

Is that a duner rear caliper bracket?

 

[bones]

hell yeah its coming together looks good pat

 

[Gen1Pat]

The top end is here, the top end is here! Did I say that the top end is here?!

 

[beastlywarrior228]

Rear tires mounted (already did fronts)

Best tires out there

 

[lbjamm]

Is your top end there yet. lol

 

[alex456123]

Is your top end there yet. lol

i dont think it is! is it? :haha:

 

[YAMAHAULER]

Lookin damn great Pat!

Hey is the top end there yet?
if so get dat MF together man!

 

[lbjamm]

Lookin good Pat. When's your top end sposed to get there?

 

['00 WO-YA!]

What a hunk of ****! J/k bro, the bike is turning out really nice, think of the turd that you brought home that 1st day! Hurry up and finish so you can come help with mine!

 

[duneracerweston]

He got the top end this morning, the deck is set, topend is on. He's setting cam timing now.

 

[alex456123]

He got the top end this morning, the deck is set, topend is on. He's setting cam timing now.

dude its a joke. we know.

 

[Gen1Pat]

Well the top end is on. Good thing I have Weston giving a play by play of the "event". Lol. Talked to James about cam timing, and deck height. Talked to Weston too about deck height. Had to do some finagling to get it where I/we wanted it. Had to take the damn thing apart twice to do it. Have pics but too tired to post em up. And no, it wont be running tomorrow, so don't ask. I still have to assemble and install the clutch, and put the stator side together. Will be working on it come Saturday. The engine will be in and MAYBE the wiring harness. If I can manage to get the engine together and in the chassis before Saturday, there is a chance that I can have it running Sat. Need the engine & cooler mounted so I can get the cooler lines made to the perfect length. Without that, it's a "no start", haha. God I'm tired...

 

[YAMAHAULER]

can't wait Pat it's gonna be nice to see the old girl resurrected in the proper form!

 

[Gen1Pat]

These are the only pics I have. Would have more if I had a better camera.

Megacycle 252x1

Newly rebuilt/decked & ported head

Mocked up a degree wheel from my pipe bender to degree the cam (useless since I don't have a piston stop, or dial indicator at the shop)

This is how far down in the hole the piston was, with the timing marks on the crank and left side case lined up.

DO NOT EVER USE THESE MARKS FOR TIMING!!!!! The only thing these marks are good for, is for reference to install the balance shaft drive&driven gears (they have marks too). The crank/case marks are roughly 20* advanced from TDC. With the engine at TRUE TDC, the deck height was .035" w/out base gasket, not the best after talking to Weston and James (and I remember checking stock stroke w/out base gasket, and getting much tighter reading). Idk what the skinny is since I don't have another stroker piston to use for comparisson, and have not pulled the head from my old engine yet to check the deck heigt on it. In the end, I did what James did to his, and took apart an old head gasket. I took the center shim (.011" it measured before cleaning), cleaned it, sprayed it with high tack gasket spray, and installed it. The head was decked a little, so deck height is between .040"&.045". If I was to use the Hotrods stroker crank again, I'd use the 85mm JE 10.5:1, and have a big bear cylinder milled down to the proper deck height. I do need to degree in the cam. It is retarded a decent amount (going by the cam's/head's timing marks). My guess is as much as 7*. To put into perspective why you should NOT use the crank/case marks for timing; with those marks aligned the cam gear's marks shows it being slightly advanced. With the flyweel & stator cover on, and the T lined up (true TDC reading), the cam is retarded.

This is close to what she'll look like when done.

 

['00 WO-YA!]

Everything I that box but a bottle of whiskey, lol! Good job man.

 

[Gen1Pat]

Thanks for the help! Both you, and Weston. Have to finish a Duramax water pump tomorrow (interrupted today), once that is done I will be back to work on this.

Another thing I did was shave some meat off the decomp tang on the exhaust rocker. Megacyle states that because of that cam's reduced base circle, you have to take .030"-.040" off the tang. That way the decomp lever/rod wont engage the valve and bend it. I forgot to do it when I had the rockers out. So, with a rag in place to catch debris, I took the whiz gun with a scotchbrite "cookie", and ground some material off that tang. I roughly measured it with a caliper, but I know that I took a bit more then the .030"-.040" off her. Seems to be good just rotating the engine by hand. Not contacting the tang, no valve to piston intereference, and the valve opens MAYBE a 1/16" when the decomp is used (looking in through the exhaust port).

 

[DeadLastRacing]

marks are good for, is for reference to install the balance shaft drive&driven gears (they have marks too). The crank/case marks are roughly 20* advanced from TDC. With the engine at TRUE TDC, the deck height was .035" w/out base gasket, not the best after talking to Weston and James (and I remember checking stock stroke w/out base gasket, and getting much tighter reading). Idk what the skinny is since I don't have another stroker piston to use for comparisson, and have not pulled the head from my old engine yet to check the deck heigt on it. In the end, I did what James did to his, and took apart an old head gasket. I took the center shim (.011" it measured before cleaning), cleaned it, sprayed it with high tack gasket spray, and installed it. The head was decked a little, so deck height is between .040"&.045". If I was to use the Hotrods stroker crank again, I'd use the 85mm JE 10.5:1, and have a big bear cylinder milled down to the proper deck height. I do need to degree in the cam. It is retarded a decent amount (going by the cam's/head's timing marks). My guess is as much as 7*. To put into perspective why you should NOT use the crank/case marks for timing; with those marks aligned the cam gear's marks shows it being slightly advanced. With the flyweel & stator cover on, and the T lined up (true TDC reading), the cam is retarded.

SO what mark should it be set at and what does the vitos key do to all of this?