Help with build

[beastlywarrior228]

I run 13-40 on 21" rears and why are you changing the cam timing 1 whole tooth

 

[1statv]

@mathius any brand inparticular for the piston??
@beastly that's what mechanic advised. Is it a good idea??

 

[88WarriorBoy]

Je or wiseco are the best known with the best results

 

[beastlywarrior228]

@mathius any brand inparticular for the piston??
@beastly that's what mechanic advised. Is it a good idea??

Thats way to much timing advance first id recommend leaving the cam timing alone but the proper way is get the adjustable cam sprocket. I would do an ignition advance with a different flywheel key

 

[88WarriorBoy]

weston said that if you jump the timing 1 tooth in advance that equates to like 34+ degrees of timing advance which is a big NO NO lol

 

[Mathius]

Je or wiseco are the best known with the best results

I think the JE pistons are a bit better quality that the wiseco's.. I would just keep the timing stock, sounds like buddy is smoke'n something?
If you start piss'n around with that, it'll run to hot. The motor will wear out faster.

 

[beastlywarrior228]

Id be worried about the valves meeting the piston

 

[1statv]

Ok timing left alone unless I do the Vito's key also I can upgrade the piston without touching the jug correct??

 

[YAMAHAULER]

If it was smoking or burning oil no you'll have to bore and hone but if not you should be able to get away with just a hone something you should do no matter what so the new rings have a good surface to contact against
and make sure you measure the jug before you order the piston so you get the right size

 

[Mathius]

^x2
I bought myself a really nice brush hone, just for those kind of special occasions. You can usually get away with one hone job before you need to bore it (If the bore is in good shape), look for gouges or pitting. Lines down the cylinder wall.. And always, check the bore size before you order a piston. lol
You never know whats been done in there till you tear it apart.

It's best to take it to a machine shop for all that, if you don't have anyone to show you the proper steps.

 

[Gen1Pat]

My rule of thumb... no heavy score marks, severe glazing on the thrust faces, AND no ridging... hone that mofo!

 

[duneracerweston]

weston said that if you jump the timing 1 tooth in advance that equates to like 34+ degrees of timing advance which is a big NO NO lol

still trying to catch up on this thread, but one cam tooth equates to 11.25* of timing.. the factory warrior cdi has a timing curve of 34* at peak.. dont get ignition and cam timing mixxed up..


now imma finish reading..

 

[duneracerweston]

My rule of thumb... no heavy score marks, severe glazing on the thrust faces, AND no ridging... hone that mofo!

for me if you can feel it with your finger nail its to much..

here is how i would build your motor set up if your building the motor up a bit.

Next size up 10.25:1 wiseco piston
Delete the jug gasket (should put comp around 11:1 depending on bore size)
S1HC or a cheap web or megacycle cam
port work
Vitos degree key
and a decent intake and exhaust (one of sparkies headers with a nice slip on)

other then that its all external like carbs and air boxes and plugs and coils ect. you can go as wild as you want.

 

[1statv]

@duneracer what would be the best bore to get some up and go but keep reliability?? The list you did sound perfect

 

[1statv]

Just to verify white smoke on occasion (when hammering throttle) and when choke is on (when starting on cold days) = top end rebuild

 

[Mathius]

Just to verify white smoke on occasion (when hammering throttle) and when choke is on (when starting on cold days) = top end rebuild

White smoke is moisture coming from somewhere? I wouldn't be to concerned about it.. Blue smoke is what you should keep your eye out for, unless your oil is contaminated with water??

 

[Mathius]

@duneracer what would be the best bore to get some up and go but keep reliability?? The list you did sound perfect

Boring it out won't give it much of a kick in the pants. You will feel some gain in performance but not much.
84mm is a good bore, 85mm will take you to a 366. Also going to a 12:1 compression ratio will give you more power, but you'll have to run high octane fuel. I dont like the idea of running no base gasket, but thats my personal opinion.. But like weston said, it'll bump your compression to.

 

[duneracerweston]

White smoke = moisture
blue smoke = oil
Black smoke = fuel issue

As far as boring goes, I couldn't tell you till you pulled it apart, I only bore it out a half millimeter over .020 so you have more room to rebuild later. So if its STD bore now I would go to 83.5mm or .020 over. But thats me

 

[duneracerweston]

If you dont like deleting the jug gasket you can have the jug milled but thats permanent..

 

[Mathius]

If you dont like deleting the jug gasket you can have the jug milled but thats permanent..

^^X2
I was gonna mention that.. lol
Thats what I do with the air cooled 2 strokes I build. It lowers the squish for a more even burn, and bumps compression. (Till you mod the chamber :evilface
(edit)
Actually I'm drunk, and backwards..lol
Bumping the compression gives you a stronger burn. Modding the chamber gives you a more even burn.